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ETM Cloning Question

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved P2 (S60, V70II, XC70, S80, XC90)
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  • Z Offline
    Z Offline
    Zubecco
    wrote on last edited by
    #1

    Hi, I am new to the forum and VDash in general.

    I have always used VIDA and DICE for fault tracing.

    My ETM (Magnetti Marelli) basically died, and I bought a replacement that should fit. The issue I have is the firmware/software not compatible with the car.

    I still have the old one, and it can be powered on.

    Is it possible to clone the old ETM to the "new" one using VDash?

    If so, how?

    Thanks!

    T5 T6 SchnappiT 1 Reply Last reply
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    • T5 T6 SchnappiT Offline
      T5 T6 SchnappiT Offline
      T5 T6 Schnappi
      replied to Zubecco last edited by
      #2

      @Zubecco ETM cloning is possible with Vdash.
      You don't need any pin for this.
      You just need to attach a good charger to the battery which is capable to maintain a constant load of 8-15 Ampere while reading/writing the software.
      And you need a working and stable internet connection over the whole process.
      After connecting Vdash you will find a cloning menu in the top right corner (ADVANCED clone/charts Button).
      You basically connect the old ETM, make a backup of it's software, then connect the new ETM and upload the saved software to it. Done. Make sure that both parts have the same part/hardware number before you start.
      Plan some time for this. The transfer speed for software is really low on PreFL P2s. And don't use a Vxdiag or Scanmatic adapter for this!
      Cloning, or better said, restoring backups is a paid service. So you will need to add Credits(money) to your account through Vdash. This is done by clicking on the money logo in the top right corner. The amount needed should be shown in the clone assistent. The price should be 39 Euros+VAT if you use a credit card. Paypal will cost an extra fee.
      While you're at it you should also crack your immo pin which only takes a few seconds. And you should make a backup of your UEM(rear view mirror) which contains your keyfob data. Just in case to have a backup when you might need it, especially if you have a sunroof. This part is infamous for damages through water ingress. Backups are usually free and will be stored on the Vdash servers.

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      • Z Offline
        Z Offline
        Zubecco
        wrote last edited by
        #3

        Thank you!
        I actually did this today and everything worked.

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        • V Offline
          V Offline
          Volvass80
          replied to T5 T6 Schnappi last edited by
          #4

          @T5-T6-Schnappi Hi just tried to clone ETM on my s80 2001. Did everything as you have writen. When I put key on position 2 ant started cloning looks like ignition dissapeared - all lights in speedometer turned off, no reaction from windows, radio, clima etc. It seems that the cloning was still going on because the percentages were slowly increasing, but after an hour it threw an error that the copying failed. After that I tried to start the engine and there was still no ignition just ''check engine'' light apeared, crank, but not start. After disconnecting the battery and waiting for a while, the ignition came back and started, but of course the cloning itself failed. What could be the cause of it? Any thougts or tips?

          T5 T6 SchnappiT 1 Reply Last reply
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          • T5 T6 SchnappiT Offline
            T5 T6 SchnappiT Offline
            T5 T6 Schnappi
            replied to Volvass80 last edited by
            #5

            @Volvass80 The car goes into programming mode to read and write software to/from modules. This means the car turns of all unnecessary functions to safe voltage for the software transfer. The car literally seem to go completely dead. This is normal and nothing to worry about.
            Trying to read the ETM for one hour seems to be way to long. Reading and writing should take some minutes each.

            What type of adapter are you using? Vxdiag, Vxnano, Scanmatic SMII and cheap Mongoose and DICE clones sold on chinese trading plattform are known to not work reliable enough for software cloning. The adapter name is shown in the top right corner of Vdash.

            Is your charger powerfull enough? I recommended a CTEK PRO25S or a charger with similar specs. Lots of cheap noname chargers also create interferences that interfere the software transfer.

            Is your internet connection stable when in the car?

            If the car is stuck in programming mode you need to disconnect the battery exactly as you did. Or you can try the emergency restart function of Vdash.

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            • V Offline
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              Volvass80
              replied to T5 T6 Schnappi last edited by
              #6

              @T5-T6-Schnappi Thanks for explaining programming mode I already thought something was wrong again😀 .

              My internet might be not the fastest, but I am sure connection is stable.

              I use not so powerfull charger as yours( mine "OSRAM" provides 8Amps), but I checked voltage during software reading and it was stable 12,7V. Vdash states it needs to be at least 12,6V so I guess Im still good with it.

              Adapter I use is from china some DICE clone i got for 50Eur. Name in Vdash is "SM2 USB". Tried to download drivers from Vdash site, but then device is not recognised. So I used chinese seller's provided Scanmatic drivers.

              As I understand it, the problem is most likely with the adapter, I think I need to buy a super j2534 from vdash. Is it possible that they will refund the credits for this failed operation if I used the SM2 adapter?

              T5 T6 SchnappiT 1 Reply Last reply
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              • T5 T6 SchnappiT Offline
                T5 T6 SchnappiT Offline
                T5 T6 Schnappi
                replied to Volvass80 last edited by T5 T6 Schnappi
                #7

                @Volvass80 The internet speed doesn't have be fast. The connection just has to be stable and the ping/latency shown by Vdash should be in the green range all the time.

                I see two potential problems.
                Your charger is not the best choice for software operations as it not only has a slightly too low power output. It most probably has no filter on the power outlet, so it sends interferences to the car. But if you attach both cables directly to the battery most of those interferences should be filtered out by the battery.

                Your adapter is most likely the real problem here. A price tag in the 30-60 Euro range is an almost 100 percent guaranty to get a low quality device these days. Good quality DICE clones with original M32C chipset start at around 100 Euros. And good Mongoose JLR Pro/Super J2534 with the original Atmel chipset are even more expensive.
                D5T5 and some of their partners offer to rent an adapter. So you don't need to spend that much money for a single operation. Your Scanmatic clone is good enough for diagnostics and service functions. It's just not good enough for configuration changes and cloning.

                You can try to get a refund by creating a support ticket here chose VDASH-Refunds.

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