Hello everyone,
I'm French.
I'm happy to join your community.
I own a beautiful V60 B4D from 2024.
I'll be contacting you with various technical questions, as I'll be working on the car myself, given that Volvo service in France isn't very competent.
Thank you for your help in advance.
Zortin

@VolvoAugust Do a short test without the charger attached, to rule out interferences from it.
And take into account, that the brute forcing of the CEM and ECM pin are not comparable in terms of speed. Your ECM seems to be somewhat slower to crack. So you need to be patient.
If you don't want to wait for up to 90 hours, your only alternative would be bench reading. This involves removing the ECM from the car and take it to someone who is able to open it, and read and decode the content directly from the EEPROM with special tools and software. Most ECU repair workshops should be able to do this, but not for free and with the risk of damaging the ECM, especially the pins in the connectors, while removing/installing it.

@sizan Is the DPF also physically removed from the car?
You should also check if the correct injector class is set in the ECM, before you try different software.
Another stupid question. Does the VIN that is reported by the CEM/shown in Vdash match the VIN that is stamped in the chassis?

Vdash has a backup/clone function. So it should be possible to make a backup before flashing different software. The button is somewhere in the top right corner between "configuration" and "Ecu diagnostic", after the car is connected.
Attach a really good charger while flashing/backup.
When the programming is done, shut off the car and leave it alone for a while. And be prepared that the car might not start at the first attempt after flashing. This is normal on some cars.
On some cars you also need to reset the ECM adaptions after a flash. I can't tell you if this required on this specific engine.

@T5-T6-Schnappi thanks, here is the history leading to this, In October at around 135K I had the haldex service, oil change and gearbox oil changed, the car had a squeak that I thought was a belt squeaking. I took it in had timing and belts done. The squeak remained. The guy at the time said he could blank the EGR and have the ECU map it out. I had a LR Disco 2 and this same procedure was done there so I agreed. Car ran OK for a short spell then codes started appearing of which the same tech managed to remove but the performance was not correct.

I had them remove the blank and at the same time I had the squeak sorted, this turned out to be Manifold Gasket and loose bolts. At the same time all oil seals were replaced at back of engine. Car ran well for a short time and then same performance issues, so I had the stock Map put back on ECU from the back up.

Since then the turtle. I took to a different garage and they put a scope into the Inlet and carbon was bad, so we replaced the EGR Valve and Cooler and did a Walnut Blast. Still the tortoise and P0100.

I tried a MAF from Ebay, same issue, It then got a new MAF from Volvo same issue and the logging I am doing says the EBAY MAF and the New MAF are very much the same.

The Scanner used was Autel and this only registers the P0100 fault, I will check with the garage again to see if any thing else appears.

The only aftermarket sensor is the MAP, thats a Bosch one, I replaced because original was coked up, but no fault reading for that one.

I am capturing the RAW HEX, I will run capture after clearing all adaptions and see what I can get as the fault appears.