I created a VMware VM with WIN11 25H2 to test this. Installation worked perfect, but i noticed 2 problems.
VIDAMonitor errors out at system boot with an error "Can't connect to database". Switching the start type of the SQL service from "Automatic (delayed start)" to "Automatic" solved this.
The desktop link to start Edge in IE Mode doesn't work. Had to manually enable IE Mode and add localhost/vida. Additionally i used this https://github.com/LesFerch/IEModeExpiryFix to make this permanent instead of just 30 days.

@danielraistrick Then everything works as intended. ITP (Infotainment theft protection) detects a module that doesn't belong to your VIN and shuts down the whole Infotainment.
You need to decode the CEM pin, IMMO pin and Security pin with vdash, and than you can disable ITP.
Or you visit a Volvo dealer and ask for the installation of software with the partnumber 31268617, which also disables ITP. But allot of dealers refuse to do this. Atleast here in germany.

@skalaev Than opt for BSR tuning or RICA.

@sizan This is "normal". The same thing happens with the original VIDA2014D. VIDA will still work as long as VidaMonitor was fully started before it crashes. Just restart your computer after using Vdash to be sure that everything works as expected. The DICE and Mongoose drivers sometimes also get blocked after using Vdash until you reboot.
Nothing a reboot can't fix or to worry about.

@Belos Did you receive a message/email that your pin code was successfully cracked and added to the vdash database?
You should always have a powerfull charger connected while you perform configuration changes. And after changing configurations, you should leave the car alone and locked for at least 15 minutes. What adapter do you use to connect your car and computer?

@Arnis2002 my current understanding is, that it's unclear if the car was remapped or not. If this is the case and the car was tampered by one of those wannabe tuners that think running crap like autotuner, which offers stolen software packages without checking if the software works or even matches the vehicle makes them a good tuner, then I agree with you. Return to 100% original software and then flashing a properly done remap based on that is the way to go. If this has to be done from one of the most expensive Volvo tuners around is another question.
The tunes offered by Vdash are made by Obbe-Tuning, and this guy also knows what he's doing, but for much less money.

@ZaanTerror I did some testing with your newest version of VIDA. This time i created a Windows 2 Go-USB Stick with WIN11 25H2.
Clean Installation worked fine.
VIDAMonitor starts without errors.
IE Mode in Edge works without user interaction.

While playing with VIDA, I noticed 2 things.
When in parts catalogue, clicking on any position number in the parts diagram leads to a short freeze of Edge and the associated line in the parts list won't get highlighted.
The Software tab is completely empty/just shows a blank screen. As sw downloads don't work with this version of VIDA, and I look up sw numbers in Parts catalogue, this is no big deal for me. But still, is this intentional?
Both issues might be caused by the medium/low transfer speed of the USB stick I used, but I'm not sure. The overall performance feeling of your VIDA version is really good.

As an additional suggestion. Would it be possible to integrate the drivers for Mongoose and VXDiag adapters, as these quite often can be found inside the housings of DICEs bought from chinese plattforms?

@aiveo to code a new ignition key you first have to decode the IMMO pin. This should be the option, if my translator is correct. After that you can add new keys. The key wizard allows to just add the key without having to pair the remote part. Vdash should also show you how many keys and remotes are currently paired with your car.

"Engine service required" means there is one or more active error codes (DTCs) stored in the engine control module (ECM). You should see them after connecting Vdash and wait for all ecus to load. Best practice is to make a screenshot of all codes shown and clear them (ignition pos. II, ignition on, engine not running!). After that turn off the ignition for a moment, than start the car and rev around 1500 RPM for a moment, than read codes again and see what codes came back.

The zig zag lines are a normal PWM signal. Not sure if the values are correct as I don't have access to an official VIDA subscription to check. But looks normal.

@Michel71 That`s a hard one to diagnose. Do you have any DTCs in the car? Is the Battery healthy (Idle voltage/ignition off + doors closed = lower than 12,5V = not okay)?
With your milage I wouldn't be surprised if the ignition switch is worn out, same for the fuel pump and ECM relais, as well as others. But I also wouldn't rely on the diagnosis of Xemodex. There are some reports of dying CEMs that were incorrectly said to be okay by them.
If want to check the electrics you can obtain the wiring diagrams for your car from here https://vidaresources.volvocars.biz/ewd/Eng/index.html the pin outs and signal descriptions can be found in VIDA under Information/product specifications/specifications electrical. If you don't have VIDA, ask the user ZaanTerror in this thread https://forum.d5t5.com/topic/249/vida-2014d-2015a-windows-11 for his version of VIDA. It's awesome and works flawless with Windows 10/11.

Is the car tuned or stock?

Those codes are for too low shifting pressure, or slipping clutches in 2nd and 3rd gear and could be caused by the wrong oil, to low oil level or worn clutches or a worn torque converter.
When did those codes apear for the first time and under which circumstances?
What oil do you use? The correct oil from volvo has the part number 1161540/1161640 or Aisin JWS 3309.
Did you perform an adaption reset after changing all those parts?

@aiveo https://youtu.be/JeP1lWSfAdA?is=YTg6CEC980bYtC5_ here is a video how to do it

WARNING! The software shown here is still experimental. Using any other functions/options than the ones shown in this guide can and will brick your car as they are not working (yet) or are unreliable to use. You will get zero support from anybody if anything goes wrong.

Please read the whole guide before you start.

This Guide should work for all brick shaped CEMs (CEM-B) with the following part numbers:

8602436
8645171
8645200
8645205
8645716
8645719
8688434
8688436
8688513
9452553
9452596
9469809
9494336
9494594
30657629

Prerequisites:
Laptop with Windows 10/11
Original DICE / Full Chip DICE Clone or Mongoose Pro/Super J2534; other adapters do not work for this
Optional: Battery charger/tender if your battery can’t maintain a stable voltage of 12,5V+ for around 10 minutes with Ignition on

-Download OpenMoose Renatus from here http://www.openmoose.net

-Unpack the archive to a folder of your choice and start the OpenMoose .exe
-Click on “Settings”(1.)
-Select your adapter type “DICE” or “Mongoose”, and the Baud rate “125/250 (-2004)” (2.)
-Connect the adapter to your car and turn the ignition to Pos. II (Ignition on/Engine not running)
-Click on CEM (4.)

-Click on “Connect” (5.) and wait until your vehicle type and model year is shown in the top right corner.
-Click on “Fast recover PIN”(6.)

-It should take 60-180 seconds to retrieve the PIN, depending on the adapter you are using
-If a PIN is found, write it down or make a screenshot

-DO NOT USE THE “Test PIN” OPTION!!!
-Click on “Disconnect” and close OpenMoose
-Ignition Off

Use this form https://d5t5.com/helpdesk/create/ticket/pin to add your PIN to the Vdash database

Or do it from within Vdash:
-Switch the Ignition to Pos.II
-Start Vdash and connect to your car
-Once all modules have been loaded, click on “Security”

-Click on “PIN, IMMO Codes”

-Click on “Add PIN” (1.) and enter the PIN without spaces
-Click on “Continue” (2.) and wait a moment

-Close all Tabs in Vdash, wait a short moment for Vdash database to update, and reconnect to your car

-Check if your PIN was successfully added in Vdash
-Go to “Security”/”Manage PINs” (again), and see if your PIN is listed

-Done

If no PIN is found, your only option is bench reading. The teensy method https://github.com/vtl/volvo-cem-cracker/tree/cem-b will also not work as it uses the same approach.

@Shawn327 the circumfence is only relevant for the speedo and odometer. The transmission works with some sort of mappings based on calculated engine load/calculated torque requirement, and decides based on that when to shift up/down. You will need to modify the ECM and TCM software for a different shifting behavior.

Another thing you should keep in mind is, that much bigger circumfence means more torque needed to get the car moving under all driving circumstances. This results in much higher mechanical stress to the whole drivetrain under all driving conditions. Especially your angle gear and transmission are facing a higher torque load whenever you accelerate. Expect that you need to service or even rebuild them in the very near future. You should at least flush the transmission, angle gear, differentials and Haldex at a very regular and short interval.

@Remusrahau to install used or new components of the Infotainment you first have to disable ITP (Infotainment Theft Protection). You can do this with Vdash after decoding the CEM pin, IMMO pin and ITP security PIN. Or if you have access to VIDA online you can simply download and install software with the part number 31268617(ITP off).
With ITP disabled you can install used modules without having to clone or program them as long as you keep ITP disabled. They should work as long they come from a donor car with similar configuration and modelyear than yours.
Or you can install new modules and clone software to them or program them with VIDA online.
ITP uses a VIN specific security pin which is programmed to all modules of the Infotainment and the CEM, and is send to the CEM everytime you turn on the ignition from every single module. If one or more modules sends the wrong or no pin, the whole Infotainment gets shut down immediately. This is why your new ICM doesn't turn on. Wrong ITP pin.

@Volvass80 The car goes into programming mode to read and write software to/from modules. This means the car turns of all unnecessary functions to safe voltage for the software transfer. The car literally seem to go completely dead. This is normal and nothing to worry about.
Trying to read the ETM for one hour seems to be way to long. Reading and writing should take some minutes each.

What type of adapter are you using? Vxdiag, Vxnano, Scanmatic SMII and cheap Mongoose and DICE clones sold on chinese trading plattform are known to not work reliable enough for software cloning. The adapter name is shown in the top right corner of Vdash.

Is your charger powerfull enough? I recommended a CTEK PRO25S or a charger with similar specs. Lots of cheap noname chargers also create interferences that interfere the software transfer.

Is your internet connection stable when in the car?

If the car is stuck in programming mode you need to disconnect the battery exactly as you did. Or you can try the emergency restart function of Vdash.

@Bigv Did you just blank the EGR, or did you install a remap/tune with EGR off? Remaps/tunes will always trigger checksum DTCs in the CEM and ECM, which you can only get rid off by reverting back to the original, untampered Volvo Software of the ECM. Or by performing a software reload for the ECM with VIDA. There is no other way to fix this.

@Miki89 D5T5 doesn't let you see the pin. It is stored in the vdash database so you can use vdash. If you want to see the pin, you would need to decode your car with another another tool like p3tool, or you need to find someone who is able to retrieve the pin via the VIDA/Wireshark-method. But this will cost you money.

Sponsored accounts are highly limited in functionality. You can contact the support to enable this specific option for you.