@VolvoAugust Do a short test without the charger attached, to rule out interferences from it.
And take into account, that the brute forcing of the CEM and ECM pin are not comparable in terms of speed. Your ECM seems to be somewhat slower to crack. So you need to be patient.
If you don't want to wait for up to 90 hours, your only alternative would be bench reading. This involves removing the ECM from the car and take it to someone who is able to open it, and read and decode the content directly from the EEPROM with special tools and software. Most ECU repair workshops should be able to do this, but not for free and with the risk of damaging the ECM, especially the pins in the connectors, while removing/installing it.

@VolvoAugust What's the hardware number of the ECM? This info is shown when you click on the ECM in vdash.

@Ctrl-alt-delete if your cable 100% supports the DoIP, or the J2534-2 protocol (including compatible Windows J2534-2 drivers), you should be able use it with vdash or orbit. But as it sounds more like you have made a CAN bus sniffer, I doubt it.

To program keys, you will need several security pins to get write access to several ecus. Not 100% sure what is needed on the SPA plattform, but IMMO and KVM pin are definitely needed, and can't be cracked with Vdash. Maybe you also need the CEM pin, which has a 50/50 chance to be crackable with Vdash with a really good J2534 adapter and lots of patience.
There are even more pins in your car, and all if them are unique for your car. The only way to extract most of them is on the bench or by using man-in-the-middle techniqes while the car is being programmed with a legit version of VIDA. On SPAs/CMAs from 2022 onwards it became even worse because of a hardware firewall behind the OBD socket.

@sizan Is the DPF also physically removed from the car?
You should also check if the correct injector class is set in the ECM, before you try different software.
Another stupid question. Does the VIN that is reported by the CEM/shown in Vdash match the VIN that is stamped in the chassis?

Vdash has a backup/clone function. So it should be possible to make a backup before flashing different software. The button is somewhere in the top right corner between "configuration" and "Ecu diagnostic", after the car is connected.
Attach a really good charger while flashing/backup.
When the programming is done, shut off the car and leave it alone for a while. And be prepared that the car might not start at the first attempt after flashing. This is normal on some cars.
On some cars you also need to reset the ECM adaptions after a flash. I can't tell you if this required on this specific engine.

@aiveo another option would be to drill a hole from the front, remove the old transponder, and glue in the new one.
The original key seems to be not meant for a transponder exchange, so Volvo can make more money with selling a complete new keyfob plus coding.

@aiveo https://youtu.be/JeP1lWSfAdA?is=YTg6CEC980bYtC5_ here is a video how to do it

@C70Nightmare you might also ask the threadstarter of this thread https://forum.d5t5.com/post/674 for his version of VIDA, as Vdash lacks lots of options, because the main focus of this software is coding. Diagnostics and service functions are just add-ons that are partially implemented, but not even close to the level of VIDA.

@C70Nightmare should be also an option in the ECM menu.

@C70Nightmare what options do you see when you click on the ECM? Your engine should only require setting the correct injector class, so you won't see the IMA code option that you might have seen in some online tutorials or videos. If you replaced your injectors with the same class, you won't need to do any coding at all. All 4 injectors have to be the same class.

@C70Nightmare injector coding is not available on sponsored accounts. https://d5t5.com/article/subscription-types-prices

@Arnis2002 my current understanding is, that it's unclear if the car was remapped or not. If this is the case and the car was tampered by one of those wannabe tuners that think running crap like autotuner, which offers stolen software packages without checking if the software works or even matches the vehicle makes them a good tuner, then I agree with you. Return to 100% original software and then flashing a properly done remap based on that is the way to go. If this has to be done from one of the most expensive Volvo tuners around is another question.
The tunes offered by Vdash are made by Obbe-Tuning, and this guy also knows what he's doing, but for much less money.

@aiveo I just noticed you already cracked the IMMO. Just run the key wizard then, and don't forget to attach a good charger to the car while doing this.

@aiveo to code a new ignition key you first have to decode the IMMO pin. This should be the option, if my translator is correct. After that you can add new keys. The key wizard allows to just add the key without having to pair the remote part. Vdash should also show you how many keys and remotes are currently paired with your car.

"Engine service required" means there is one or more active error codes (DTCs) stored in the engine control module (ECM). You should see them after connecting Vdash and wait for all ecus to load. Best practice is to make a screenshot of all codes shown and clear them (ignition pos. II, ignition on, engine not running!). After that turn off the ignition for a moment, than start the car and rev around 1500 RPM for a moment, than read codes again and see what codes came back.

@volveeta After changing parameters, you have to shut off the car and lock it long enough until all ecus are fully shut down. This can take up to 20 minutes. After that time all changes made "should" be active and in effect. For the first ERS attempt, you should drive around for a while and then leave the car locked and alone for a short period of time. If ERS is actived, but still not working, there usually are messages on the dash, which prerequisits are not okay. The car should be parked on halfway level ground, battery SOC over 80%, enough fuel in the tank, parking brake applied, no active DTCs in the ECM and TCM.
If you press any key on the fob, after the ERS is triggered, the car is immediatly shuts off.

@volveeta the correct press sequence is short press on the lock button, looong press on the light button.
After enabling ERS by setting the 2 parameters, you have to leave the car locked for 15-20 minutes and than drive around for a while, maybe 10-15 minutes. Than lock the car again with parking brake applied and wait for maybe 15 minutes before you try it.

Stupid question. Did you try a fresh set of batteries in the fob. And are you patient enough? After pressing the lock button, you must be really quick to switch to the light button and hold that until the hazard lights are flashing

@sizan could you make a list what has already been done/checked?

Do you have error messages in the DIM after trying ERS?

Did you change both options mentioned in this article https://d5t5.com/article/remote-engine-start-from-car-key-ers
And did you wait long enough (15-20 minutes) after the car was locked, before you tried ERS?

@Arnis2002 With checking injectors I mean performing an injector fuel return test, which can also be seen in the picture I posted. This simple test consist of unplugging the small fuel return hoses from the injectors, and watching and comparing the amount of leaking fuel of all 4 injectors while the engine is running. This simple test is an indicator to diagnose worn injectors, and can be easily done without removing them from the engine. Every professional mechanic I know, would do exactly this test together with a smoke test of the whole inlet, based on the symptoms reported.

Installing tuning software without doing a proper diagnose to fix potential engine problems is a somewhat special suggestion.