@zgr444 Enter your VIN in the search field on the D5T5 homepage. All tuning options possible for your car should be shown. But as your car is polestar tuned, you should try to contact Obbe tuning, who is making all tunes for Vdash, first. The "Original + EGR off + DPF off" tunes are usually based on the non polestar software and would remove the polestar tune from your car. At least for the engine. I have no idea how the transmission part of the polestar tune is affected.
If you have a working Vdash setup, you can also just connect your car and click the engine optimization option to see all options possible. This should check the software version of your ECM, and present tunes based on that.
To tune your car, you will have to crack the ECM pin, and maybe also the CEM pin first. And you will have permanent DTCs afterwards, that will clearly indicate that your car runs with modified software. And if you have to visit a volvo dealer or want to do an OTA update, you will have to revert the car to the original software or the car will be blacklisted/blocked for all software updates/reloads.

I'm somewhat clueless to be true. Could you post all codes that are present in your car, or a screenshot of them? Active and temporary.
The main problem is, that you already started to fire the parts canon and swapped in used parts, that could have brought additional problems with them or they are simply the wrong part, as Volvo changed some things around the transmission over time. There are different part numbers for the transmission, valvebody and so on, depending on the chassis number, if look them up in VIDA. There are also at least 5 different software numbers for TCM that I found so far. Trying to help you is like looking through a crystal ball. More or less just wild guessing. Maybe you need to visit a local Volvo specialist.

@Prinz-Bernhard complete hardware change needed.
Here is little lecture about it. https://svdns.info/2023/08/27/so-youve-bought-an-import-volvo/

Greatings from the south of Berlin.

@DahuNejc the main focus of Vdash is coding, not service and diagnostics. Some functions are just not implemented (jet), or are located where you don't expect them. Lots of functions have to be started from the CEM for example.
You might also want to take a look at this program https://vtool.info/ which is made with diagnostic and service as main focus.
There is also a mobile phone app called V-Tool https://v-tool.app/ which should have the roof calibration function.

@bochenn No problem. That's what this forum is for.

For your first steps with Vdash follow this :
Install the Super J2534 drivers from here https://d5t5.com/eshop/sw/J2534_Driver_x64.msi
Then connect the adapter to the OBD port first, and after that to the computer. Than turn the ignition to pos. II (ignition on, engine not running) by pressing the start/stop button for maybe 3-5 seconds, but without your foot on the brake pedal. Than start Vdash. Log in to your account and press connect in the top left corner.
You should see all modules that are installed in your car after that.
Don't buy any subscription or configuration changes until you haven't cracked your CEM pin.
And no tunes until your ECM pin isn't cracked.
If you have any questions, just ask.

@Caerbannog13 R6 seems to be only present at the 1.6D. The starting is completely controled by the ECM once you turned the key, according to VIDA. There are several dependencies how and if this functions operates. Outside temperature, clutch switch, brake switch, battery voltage and so on. If you have VIDA, you might find informations why the autostart failed under Diagnostic/Vehicle communication/CEM/Advanced.
How old is your battery?

@Ctrl-alt-delete https://volvoparts.barrybourke.com.au/a/Volvo_2018_XC60-20l-4-cylinder-Turbo-Diesel/_51507_12286919/Compressor-exhaust/GR-466266.html
Should be nr. 33-37 in the diagram. There are several videos on youtube. Just search XC60 EMAP pipe.

@Caerbannog13 better resolution

@bochenn By the look of your windscreen, I would say your car has the City Safety sensor, collision warning sensor and rain sensor, but no FSM.

@Caerbannog13 R6 part number 9441161 or 30765030 depending on the chassis number.
R13 part number 9441160 or 30765032 also depending on the chassis number.
If your VIN ends with a number below -270000 it's the first number. 270000 and higher, the second number.

@Caerbannog13 check R6 and R13. Also check the clutch switch, if your car is a manual.

@bochenn The VIN is not enough. It's not fully shown to other users, and even if it was shown in full, it would only be useful for users, who have access to a legit subscription of VIDA which is not possible for private users, except in the USA. You either have to connect the car to Vdash at least once, and then tick the box to add your car configuration when you make a post. Or you simply make a photo of the upper middle black area of your windscreen above the rearview mirror and upload it here. This area. This photo is for example without the FSM.
Your car also needs to have Xenon headlights, as cars with Halogens don't have the required height sensors.

@Ctrl-alt-delete what's the mileage of the car? Maybe the PCV is leaking or clogged.

@bochenn here is the schematic of all modules involved for AHB. 7/119 and 7/121 are the height sensor at the front and rear axle.

@bochenn Does your car have adaptive cruise control and traffic sign recognition?

It's also possible that your EGR isn't working properly or stuck open when the ECM demands it to be fully closed.

@bochenn if your car has the required hardware like FSM, CVM and so on, than yes.

The problem seems to start when to the EGR is closing. As your MAF is reporting different values, this part is working and not the cause of your problem. Your data is lacking the pressure from the MAP sensor(s). There is one in the intake manifold that you should a look at as described here https://d5t5.com/article/vea-d5-clogged-boost-pressure-sensor and there is maybe a second one in the intercooler, that you should also clean. Then you should do a smoke test of whole intake and charge pipe system. There seems to be leak, or it's just the MAPs are dirty, also take a closer look at the EGR pipes. These are known to crack from time to time.

@Ctrl-alt-delete before you start to fire the parts canon, you should know that 90%of all MAF codes are follow up errors of other problems. Old/weak batteries, dirty MAP sensor, dirty throttle body, carbon build up in the EGR/EGR cooler. There is also a technical journal about a design flaw in the EGR cooler of older VEA diesels, that triggers P010000 and requires replacing EGR and cooler with redesigned parts.
The data you have collected is also not really useful, unless you find the signal specifications of the ECM, to check if everything is in the desired range. This data can be found in the online version of VIDA which is not accessible for private user, unless you live in the US. VIDA also has detailed explanations what triggers code XYZ and an associated fault trace with things to check, to find the cause for the code. This kind of vital information can hardly be found in the internet.
You also should know that Volvos don't like aftermarket sensors. Replacing the MAF with an aftermarket part might not solve your issue, if it's really the MAF.
Your first step should be to get a good Volvo capable diag tool and scan the car with that. Not only the ECM, all ecus. A dead battery for example will trigger several communication codes in several ecus. You should also take a look at the freeze frame data, that is stored together with the code and consists of a set of data/parameters that happened in the moment when the code was stored, which could be helpfull to identify some problems.

The J2534 is a complicated SAE standard that describes/specifies all kinds of communication protocols between all ecus in your car and a computer through a VCI. Dataformats, bitrates, commands, timings, signaling specifications and what not for programming, diagnostics, activations and so on. Substandards are J2534-1 for ECMs, J2534-2 for all other ecus. Without J2534 compatible firmware/drivers/software, your cable won't be usable for the things you want to do.

@VolvoAugust Do a short test without the charger attached, to rule out interferences from it.
And take into account, that the brute forcing of the CEM and ECM pin are not comparable in terms of speed. Your ECM seems to be somewhat slower to crack. So you need to be patient.
If you don't want to wait for up to 90 hours, your only alternative would be bench reading. This involves removing the ECM from the car and take it to someone who is able to open it, and read and decode the content directly from the EEPROM with special tools and software. Most ECU repair workshops should be able to do this, but not for free and with the risk of damaging the ECM, especially the pins in the connectors, while removing/installing it.