@Luigarma the easiest and cheapest way to accces all parameters provided by every single ecu of your car would be a mobile phone app called V-Tool in combination with a supported Bluetooth OBD-adapter. This app also allows accessing things like EPB service, service reset, BMS reset and so on via your mobile phone.
You won't get any information of your HV battery, besides the parameters, that are provided by the BECM. Here in germany there are some specialists that offer to calculate the remaining capacity of BEVs traction batteries by monitoring the charging and discharging while driving, but I have no idea if this would work for your car. Simply based on the age of your car, I would expect a drop in the total capacity of your HV battery by 20-30 % depending on the mileage compared to a new battery.

@VOLOK just out of curiosity, can you also crack all other pins via VIDA, or just VGM and CEM?

@4M Without the VGM pin you can't do anything useful on your car besides reading codes and accessing some service functions. This pin can't be cracked by brute force like other pins. The only way to get it, is by using an official VIDA subscription in combination with Wireshark and the knowledge how to get this pin this way, or via OrBit. Both ways will cost you money.

@Luigarma there is no such functions in VIDA and therefore also not in Vdash for single cells or modules. You can read the SoC, temperature, age, and so on for the whole HV battery. But I'm not sure if Vdash supports all of that.
Here are the parameters that VIDA supports

If you don't have VIDA, write me a PM for a download link.
Get a Super J2534/Mongoose adapter for your car. An original DICE costs 4 digit amounts of money and is almost impossible to find nowadays. The last time I checked it was around 1200 Euros here in germany. DICE clones often have completely different hardware from other not recommended adapters like Vxdiag or Scanmatic inside, so they look like DICEs but are worthless crap in reality. The same goes for Super J2534/Mongoose from untrusted sources of course.

@larop241 It really seems like your steering pump was replaced with a used part from another car that had a different type of steering installed.
Try if you can read the configuration from the PSCM to compare it to your CEM config. Open ECU diagnostics in Vdash, select PSCM/Others/PSCM Vehicle Configuration Parameters and if you get parameters, compare the values to the CEM configuration shown in the car configuration menu of Vdash.
If the parameters are off, you have two options now.

1. Find someone with an official VIDA subscription and get a software reload for the PSCM. This is not possible with Vdash.
2. Adjust the steering type and gear settings in the CEM to the ones of the PSCM with Vdash and see if the errors disapear, but you might have to swap in a matching steering gear for that configuration afterwards. CEM pin is required for this.
   But first you should try to contact the former owner of the car and ask why the pump was replaced in the first place.

@Usturmaca Your SRS needs to be cloned "on the bench" then. Sorry. You will need to find someone who has the required tools and knowledge for this.
After this has been done, you need to do the SRS configure procedure. See here

@zgr444 the S60II is build on the P3 plattform, the C70 is build on the P1 plattform. These cars have completely different CAN systems which are not compatible to each other. There is no way to get the Sensus from a P3 fully integrated in a C70.
Get an Android based retrofit instead, if you want a somewhat more modern infotainment.

@larop241 in which colour is the PSCM shown in Vdash/VIDA? Red, yellow, gray? Are there any other DTCs in the car, or just PSCM-U30000? That code means no communication with the module or incorrect CEM configuration. Was just the pump replaced or the whole steering rack? Is some information like hardware/software numbers shown in Vdash when you click on the PSCM?

@Usturmaca Wenn auf beiden 12V Leitungen was ankommt und du trotzdem den U-Fehler hast, ist wahrscheinlich dein Steuergerät intern kaputt. Das gleiche gilt für die anderen Fehler. Wenn die Leitungen in Ordnung sind, sind das interne Fehler. Leider finde ich deine Teilenummer in keinem meiner Kataloge um zu sagen ob die Nummer ersetzt wurde bzw. ob noch andere Nummern kompatibel mit deinem Wagen wären. Im Prinzip brauchst du ein passendes, gebrauchtes SRS Modul und musst die Software von deinem jetzigen Modul dann mittels Vdash klonen.
Oder du fragst die Firma die das Teil schon mal repariert hat, ob sie nochmal reinschauen.

@Usturmaca the picture is the smaller connector (C2).
Identifying the part numbers is super confusing as the connectors are made of several separate parts. If you're willing to try identifying the numbers, you can take a look here The big connector is called "4/9 C1" and has a 50 and 25 pole connector in it's housing. The small connector is called "4/9 C2" and consists of two 26 pole connectors in one housing. The terminals are "Type C" , but I can't tell you which ones exactly.

Always disconnect the battery and wait for at least 15 minutes before you are working on the SRS system, and never use a multimeter/Ohmmeter on any detonator circuit when the detonator is still connected!

As additional information. The SRS module has two 12V inputs. One from fuse 18 (SRS/OWS) behind the glove box (pin 43 on the SRS) "Circuit B", and one from fuse 20 (ECM/TCM/SRS) in the engine compartment (pin 42 on the SRS) "Circuit A".

Do you have any U-codes in other modules or just SRS-codes?

@Michigo der Adapter sollte okay sein.
Dein Wagen mag zwar zuletzt in den Niederlanden unterwegs gewesen sein. Ursprünglich dürfte er aber basierend auf der hier angezeigten Marktgruppe "International" für Südafrika oder Asien gebaut worden. Das sollte für dein Problem aber keine Rolle spielen.
Dir bleibt leider nur ein Ticket beim Support in der Kategorie "VDASH / Optimization / Configuration / Language" zu erstellen. Möglichst morgens/vormittags unter der Woche. Entweder wurde das Sprachpaket auf dem Server nicht ordentlich zusammen gestellt oder auf Deinem Rechner hat ein Antivirenprogramm beim aufspielen dazwischen gefunkt. Viel mehr bleibt eigentlich nicht. Das deutsche Sprachpaket kann zwar keine Umlaute, ansonsten sollte das aber eigentlich fehlerfrei funktionieren.

@Usturmaca you should adress SRS-U300716 first. All other errors are most probably follow up errors because of low voltage.
Check fuse 18 behind the glove box.

Also check the continuity between that fuse and pin 43 (red/green cable) at the SRS module connector.

Also take a really close look at the connectors and pins at the SRS module for bent pins and loose connections.

@TAXI-VIP-CIX pin decoding should now be possible with Vdash. But I'm not sure if your adapter works for this. Also don't even think about using your Vxdiag for anything else than diagnostics on your car. These adapters are absolute unreliable garbage when it comes to coding/programming and have a really high risk of bricking your car.

@sizan the donor CCM needs to have the same hardware number and buttons as your current CCM, and you need to clone the software from your old module to the donor part. Additonally you might need to run some diagnostic commands like LIN discovery or damper motor adjustment, if the swapped in part doesn't work as expected. This might require VIDA as Vdash still lacks certain diagnostic commands.

@SKanev that looks slightly burned. A professional flush would be the way to go, but based on your specific shifting issues, I think your valve body needs a rebuild or replacement. I just had a talk with a retired Volvo tech, and his reply after describing your specific problem was short and simple: "get a new valve body, everything else is a waste of time and money". Your symptoms are most probably the result of worn out or even cracked valve bores in the valve body. This seems to be a known problem especially with Gen.1 TF8Xs like yours.
If you're keen enough for this, you can also try to readjust your clutch control valves as described here but that is something I wouldn't do by myself.

@hammarby96 Are there any other SRS codes?
Are there any other DTCs in the other modules of your car? The fix only works if there are no other SRS codes. Did you replace the battery before applying the fix, as it is suggested in the official guide?

@Michigo Wenn du nur die Sprache im Kombiinstrument geändert hast, sollte das eigentlich so funktionieren.
Was hast Du denn für einen Adapter zur Verbindung zwischen Rechner und Auto benutzt? Scanmatic, Vxdiag und Vxnano sind z.B. berühmt für Übertragungsfehler die zu Problemen wie deinen führen können.
Das gleiche gilt speziell beim V50 für ein zu schwaches Ladegerät das nicht in der Lage ist min. 12,5V stabil beim Software schreiben zu halten.
Erstelle mal ein Support-Ticket. Evtl. gibt's auf den Servern eine paar Log-Einträge bezüglich Problemen bei der Softwareübertragung. Evtl. bastelt dir der Support auch ein Updatepaket zum nochmal drüber schreiben. Erstelle das Ticket möglichst während der Öffnungszeiten von D5T5.

Weißt du rein zufällig, für welchen Markt dein Wagen ursprünglich mal bestimmt war?

@radeksc https://svdns.info/2023/08/27/so-youve-bought-an-import-volvo/ take a look here. You basically have to set everything to user defined in the CEM settings and than set up what you want in the DIM. Of course you have to shut down the car and lock it for at least 15 minutes after changing the CEM settings and than again after changing the DIM settings.

@Michigo Moin
Das sieht aus wie eine unvollständige Markt- bzw. Regionumstellung. Dein Wagen ist kein Euromodell. In deiner Konfiguration stehen auch noch Meilen anstatt Kilometer. Hast du irgendwelche Fehlercodes hinsichtlich Konfiguration? Hast du nur die Sprache umgestellt oder sonst noch irgendwas?
Grüße aus der Nähe von Berlin.

@DarylDaryl the two ECM codes are usually the result of a dying ETM. Get a professionell rebuild for your ETM or a new one. If you replace the ETM you need to clone its software with Vdash. There are at least 6 different part numbers for this ETM that are all compatible with your car. A good rebuild consists of new potentiometers, new bearings for the butterfly and several new components on the PCB.