@bochenn Does your car have LPG/CNG? If not, ignore this warning, it's a generic warning as some cars similar to yours are equipped with aftermarket LPG/CNG units, that can and will interfere with the operation of Vdash. Click on "This VIN has NOT LPG unit mounted, do not show this warning anymore." and forget that you saw this message.
If you have LPG/CNG pull the associated fuse and select "The car has LPG unit mounted and is turned OFF (do not show this warning later today)."
If you are sure that you will never connect any car with LPG/CNG to your account select the last option.

@bochenn after looking over your configuration I'm almost 100% sure that your car doesn't have a FSM and therefor no AHB. You don't have collision warning, traffic sign indication, lane keeping or adaptive cruise control which is a clear sign of "no FSM".
Do you see your headlights leveling themself when you turn them on? Maybe park in front of a wall and take a closer look. You should see the light going up and down right after you turn them on. If not, the leveling is not working which means new (used) headlights. The same goes for the bending light function. Turn the steering wheel and see if the light follows. You can also activate these functions in VIDA (Diagnostic/Vehicle communication/CEM/Activations) to test it. Also check fuse nr. 16

@bochenn A Mongoose / Super J2534 is the best option for most P80, P1, P2, P3 plattform cars and will also work on SPA cars. A so called full chip DICE clone would be slightly slower but also okay.
Does your current adapter look like the one on your photos? If yes, which name does it report in the Windows device manager in the vehicle pass thru device section when it's connected?
If you intend to buy any adapter from Aliexpress or equal chinese shops you must be prepared to receive low quality parts that look like the original but don't work as expected. A good Mongoose clone with the original Atmel chipset or a good 1:1 DICE clone will never cost 2 digit amounts of money. At least not in Euros.

@Eros Install guides in english and german for clean installs can be found here
If you have any useful additions just let me know them.

If you want to replace an existing VIDA2014D installation, you need to fully remove that first. You have to stop and close VidaMonitor; stop all running SQL services; uninstall VIDA, Isoview, everything with SQL in it's name; reboot your computer; manually remove all folders containing the terms VIDA, Volvo, Ford, Isoview, SQL, Arbortext, also those that are hidden in various locations; check the Registry for leftovers and also delete them; reboot the computer again; then start ZaanTerrors Installer. Maybe I will write guide for this when I find the time and motivation to do it and add it to the install guides.

As a golden rule you shouldn't use your everyday computer for VIDA. It's better to use a dedicated machine for VIDA or create a Windows 2 Go USB drive and run VIDA from that, when your computer is already cluttered with all kinds of installed software.
The more stuff you have installed besides VIDA, the more things can and will interfere with it. Especially 3rd party antivirus/security softwares and the damages done to Windows by so called optimization/tuning softwares could give you a hard time trying to get VIDA up and running.

@bochenn The link has been changed to https://d5t5.com/sw/J2534_Driver_x64.msi
Check the connector at the headlight for corrosion. Also check for humidity inside the headlight. Remove the headlight and gently unplug and plug in the connector 2-3 times. It's also possible that your headlight is broken and needs replacement. Sadly this is quite common.

@bochenn It's absolute not recommended. Pin cracking is super slow and might even fail. And programming anything can go completely wrong because of the poor design and really, really slow communication speed of these adapters. So, no. Don't use it with Vdash for coding.

@bochenn what exactly is your problem? The Vdash login is a two-step-process. First you enter your email adress, on the next screen, that you posted, you enter your password. If the field to enter the password is missing, make sure that all updates for Windows and. Net 4.8 are installed. Have you already tried to simply reboot Windows? If you have any 3rd party antivirus/security software installed, set it to permanently disabled, reboot the computer and try again.
Don't use Vdash in a VM or on Windows 7.

@bochenn that's a false alarm and nothing to worry about. This is known to happen since ages. D5T5 can do nothing about this. And the guys from Vxdiag don't care at all about this. Restore the file from the quarantine and allow it to be executed. If you feel unsafe about this, return your adapter and get a better one. Vxdiag/Vxnano are absolute crap anyway.
You will have to run the Vxmanager every 4 weeks to renew the license, or the adapter won't work.
And don't use this adapter for anything else than diagnostics,if you don't want to brick your car.

@Nirp Do you install everything according to VIDA/EWD? Additional wirings, HCM, level sensors, light switch, and so on. Or did you just swapped in the headlights. What option in Vdash did you select and what DTCs do you have?

@Gosta The warnings are there because it is possible that the airbags are firing by accident. Usually nothing like should happen. Delete the DTCs from outside the car and wear ear protection. Just in case...
The DTCs are most probapbly the result of the low battery, but as your IAM seems to be offline/not communicating at all, you should first check all fuses.
You should also connect a charger/tender. 12,3V is way too low to programm your car.
And if you have any 3rd party antivirus/security/VPN program installed set it to permanently disabled and reboot the computer.

@Gosta the account type doesn't matter for this. You first have to fix everything and clear all other SRS codes before you can perform the SRS-CFFF fix. The price should be 99,- Euros. https://d5t5.com/article/subscription-types-prices

@ilonapshe try this https://svdns.info/2024/11/20/communication-tool-dialogue-box-missing-again-weird-cause/

@ilonapshe No selection of the diag tool usually means you are not running VIDA in Internet Explorer or Edge with IE Mode.
Do see the IE logo when VIDA is open?

@Puppi Ich würde erstmal alle Fehler löschen und sehen was wieder kommt. Sowohl bei nur Zündung an, als auch bei Motor an und fahren. Dann würde ich zunächst mal mit den Aktivierungen in VIDA (Diagnostik/Fahrzeugkommunikation/ECM/Aktivierungen) und Multimeter anfangen, ob überhaupt Spannung ankommt bzw. ab welchem Punkt es keine mehr gibt. Bzw. erstmal hören/fühlen ob Ventile und Pumpe arbeiten, oder nicht.
Hat der Wagen ein Schiebedach? Wenn ja, dann schau dir als Erstes die Sicherungskästen hinterm Handschuhfach an, ob da alles trocken ist. Das gleiche für den Sicherungskasten im Kofferraum hinten links. Da mal nachsehen ob er trocken ist, auch ohne SD. Schau auch mal nach ob überhaupt Kühlmittel für die Batteriekühlung da ist. Im Kofferraum hinten rechts ist der Ausgleichsbehälter dafür. Ansonsten sitzen die beiden Pumpen im Kofferraum hinterm Stoßfänger, und das Ventil müsste rechts hinten am Unterboden in der Nähe vom Rad sitzen.

@Puppi Ich bin nur Hobbyschrauber mit ein paar Jahren Erfahrung mit Volvo.
Von quertauschen würde ich eher abraten. Da zerschießt Du Dir nur intakte Teile mit, und hast am Ende zwei Stehzeuge. Lies den Wagen erst mal aus und mach Dir ein Bild was die gemeinsame Ursache für die diversen Fehlercodes sein könnte. Sieht für mich eher nach fehlender Masse oder Spannungsversorgung aus. Interessant wäre, ob es ähnliche Fehlercodes in anderen Steuergeräten gibt, da alle Codes, die Du hier gepostet hast, ja nur aus dem ECM stammen. Wenn da nur ein 08/15 OBD Scanner zum auslesen benutzt wurde, gibt's ja vielleicht noch ein paar mehr Fehlercodes im restlichen Fahrzeug.

@Shawn327 the circumfence is only relevant for the speedo and odometer. The transmission works with some sort of mappings based on calculated engine load/calculated torque requirement, and decides based on that when to shift up/down. You will need to modify the ECM and TCM software for a different shifting behavior.

Another thing you should keep in mind is, that much bigger circumfence means more torque needed to get the car moving under all driving circumstances. This results in much higher mechanical stress to the whole drivetrain under all driving conditions. Especially your angle gear and transmission are facing a higher torque load whenever you accelerate. Expect that you need to service or even rebuild them in the very near future. You should at least flush the transmission, angle gear, differentials and Haldex at a very regular and short interval.

WARNING! The software shown here is still experimental. Using any other functions/options than the ones shown in this guide can and will brick your car as they are not working (yet) or are unreliable to use. You will get zero support from anybody if anything goes wrong.

Please read the whole guide before you start.

This Guide should work for all brick shaped CEMs (CEM-B) with the following part numbers:

8602436
8645171
8645200
8645205
8645716
8645719
8688434
8688436
8688513
9452553
9452596
9469809
9494336
9494594
30657629

Prerequisites:
Laptop with Windows 10/11
Original DICE / Full Chip DICE Clone or Mongoose Pro/Super J2534; other adapters do not work for this
Optional: Battery charger/tender if your battery can’t maintain a stable voltage of 12,5V+ for around 10 minutes with Ignition on

-Download OpenMoose Renatus from here http://www.openmoose.net

-Unpack the archive to a folder of your choice and start the OpenMoose .exe
-Click on “Settings”(1.)
-Select your adapter type “DICE” or “Mongoose”, and the Baud rate “125/250 (-2004)” (2.)
-Connect the adapter to your car and turn the ignition to Pos. II (Ignition on/Engine not running)
-Click on CEM (4.)

-Click on “Connect” (5.) and wait until your vehicle type and model year is shown in the top right corner.
-Click on “Fast recover PIN”(6.)

-It should take 60-180 seconds to retrieve the PIN, depending on the adapter you are using
-If a PIN is found, write it down or make a screenshot

-DO NOT USE THE “Test PIN” OPTION!!!
-Click on “Disconnect” and close OpenMoose
-Ignition Off

Use this form https://d5t5.com/helpdesk/create/ticket/pin to add your PIN to the Vdash database

Or do it from within Vdash:
-Switch the Ignition to Pos.II
-Start Vdash and connect to your car
-Once all modules have been loaded, click on “Security”

-Click on “PIN, IMMO Codes”

-Click on “Add PIN” (1.) and enter the PIN without spaces
-Click on “Continue” (2.) and wait a moment

-Close all Tabs in Vdash, wait a short moment for Vdash database to update, and reconnect to your car

-Check if your PIN was successfully added in Vdash
-Go to “Security”/”Manage PINs” (again), and see if your PIN is listed

-Done

If no PIN is found, your only option is bench reading. The teensy method https://github.com/vtl/volvo-cem-cracker/tree/cem-b will also not work as it uses the same approach.

@ilonapshe First you need to identify what adapter you actually have. DICE, Scanmatic, Mongoose or whatever. There are lots of chinese DICE shells with completely different non-DICE adapter hardware inside that are sold on chinese plattforms.
Connect the adapter to the car first, switch Ignition to POS.II (Ignition on/engine off), then connect the adapter to your computer. Then open device manager and see what is listed under "Vehicle Pass Thru Interfaces" or if there is an "unknown device". You also need to install the correct driver/software version if you have a scanmatic in your DICE shell. SM2 and SM3 use different software versions. SM3 software doesn't work for the SM2 and vice versa.

@Puppi Wenn du einen funktionierenden Adapter hast, kannst du fast jeden P1 /P3 bis einschließlich Modeljahr 2019 mit VIDA2014D auslesen.
Wagen wie gewohnt anschließen
VIDA starten und mit passendem Markt/Partnercode anmelden. Meistens "4"
In VIDA Computereinstellungen wählen
VIN Dekoder ausschalten und bestätigen
Zu Fahrzeugprofil festlegen wechseln
Neben dem Feld für die FIN muss "Dekoder aus" in rot stehen, wenn nicht, nochmal aus machen
Adapter wählen aber nicht auf auslesen klicken
FIN händisch eingeben, Model, jüngstes Baujahr, Motor usw. auswählen und auf OK klicken
Zum Diagnostik Tab wechseln und wie gewohnt auslesen.
Funktioniert fast immer

Alternativ per Vdash auslesen und Codes wie oben beschrieben in VIDA recherchieren.

Vom Hybrid / Hochvoltsystem selber solltest Du definitiv die Finger lassen. Diene Codes gehören aber zur Peripherie. Also 12V.

@Puppi Da Du ja VIDA hast, kannst Du aber zumindest sämtliche Fehlercodes bzw. die zugehörigen Beschreibungen und empfohlene Fehlersuche nachschlagen. Einfach den Wagen händisch im Fahrzeugprofil definieren und OK klicken, dann auf Informationen/Fehlersuche/Fehlercodes und... / Und dann halt das jeweilige Steuergerät aus der Liste links raussuchen. Da gibt's dann zu jedem Code eine Beschreibung was den Fehler auslöst, und darunter eine Fehlersuche mit empfohlenen Schritten zur Fehlersuche.
Da in deinem Fall bis auf einen alle Codes zur Batteriekühlung gehören, würde ich kaputte Sicherung, Relais, fehlende Masse oder Wassereinbruch im hinteren Sicherungskasten vermuten, oder kaputte Pumpe. Wie bzw. womit wurde denn ausgelesen?