P3 (V40II, V40CC, S60II, V60, XC60, V70III, XC70III, S80)

@T5-T6-Schnappi I decoded the pin but I can't find where to disable ITM. Can you help me?

@Gir known issues are listed at the end of this guide.
And you need to use a DIM with white back cover and from a donor car with automatic transmission. DIMs with black back cover (from cars with VEA engine) won't work in your car.

@T5-T6-Schnappi Ich habe eine Batterie der Marke Bosch bestellt. Die Batterie wurde getestet und ist zu 100 % geladen, der Ladestand wird jedoch mit 86 % angezeigt. Ich melde mich wieder, sobald die Batterie eingetroffen ist. Vielen Dank für Ihre Aufmerksamkeit.

@akeker first of all. You have lots of low voltage errors. Replace both batteries first and perform a BMS reset afterwards.
To calibrate the FSM you need to drive the car for a while on a road with clearly visible markings and at good day light conditions after starting the calibration. That's it basically. It's also possible that your front radar needs a realignment.

Any progress on this? I would just as soon disable Volvo On Call and all warnings about the system. This is an intentional annoyance factor for people who don't pay a Volvo subscription...

Update to close the topic - since the ICM was responsive, I got a package prepared by d5t5, flashed it again (with German as base language for some reson) and then successfuly flashed to correct language. Happy ending, now I have a spare replacement module.

@Nirp Do you install everything according to VIDA/EWD? Additional wirings, HCM, level sensors, light switch, and so on. Or did you just swapped in the headlights. What option in Vdash did you select and what DTCs do you have?

Congratulations for finding this issue. That's really an unusual one.

I really don't want to be that guy, but you still should be concerned what is the real problem with your car. Why has there been a spacer installed, which would never be necessary on a healthy engine? And what caused that amount of carbon buildup to block it? This is definitely not normal. Your engine is either burning too much oil, has one or more bad injectors, low compression from worn piston rings and/or burnt exhaust valves, or you are simply using bad quality fuel. Or something else I currently don't think of. Whatever it is, your fix is most probaly just temporary.

@T5-T6-Schnappi every thing else is working fine so far.
Battery dead, secondary battery dead, some DCT here and there after a year of an ECU dropping 200mA in Off-State.
But every other Unit is answering Fine.

And thanks for the Adresse, contacted them 🙂

@johnzero 5 cylinder Diesel = ECM pin reading on the bench required.
https://d5t5.com/article/volvo-cem-pin-code

@pamie849 that sums it up. The official description doesn't mention anything about that. https://d5t5.com/article/scu-pair

@Doc https://svdns.info/2024/01/20/key-coding-p1p2p3-spa-cma/

Car is finally charging its batteries again on the land line.
After a lot of investigations on what chargers would fit the car, there is a bunch of different part numbers on the OBC for the v60, I ordered a used charger from the scrap yard. Internally and communication vise they should be basically the same and are interchangeable. However there are different lengths on the cables. My charger had the number 30659929 on it, but the one I ordered had the number 32202164. Turned out the AC cable and the cable to the DC/DC converter where shorter on the new charger one so I just swapped the lids on them. After resetting the error codes the car is now on the drive way charging its batteries and is soon ready for test drive.

It got to decode the ECM took about 48 hours luckily

@Prinz-Bernhard complete hardware change needed.
Here is little lecture about it. https://svdns.info/2023/08/27/so-youve-bought-an-import-volvo/

Greatings from the south of Berlin. 😉

It works for now.
It would be nice to be able to save the read parameters to a file (.txt or .csv). Is this possible?

@volveeta After changing parameters, you have to shut off the car and lock it long enough until all ecus are fully shut down. This can take up to 20 minutes. After that time all changes made "should" be active and in effect. For the first ERS attempt, you should drive around for a while and then leave the car locked and alone for a short period of time. If ERS is actived, but still not working, there usually are messages on the dash, which prerequisits are not okay. The car should be parked on halfway level ground, battery SOC over 80%, enough fuel in the tank, parking brake applied, no active DTCs in the ECM and TCM.
If you press any key on the fob, after the ERS is triggered, the car is immediatly shuts off.

BMS reset is only needed after replacing the main battery. The support battery has no sensor.
In your case simply do nothing. The battery management still adapts to the new battery, but it takes a little bit longer to be correct. Nothing to worry about. The BMS reset resets the battery timer, which is the only way to precisly tell the age of the battery or at least when it was installed in your car, and also tells the battery management to adapt to a new battery. This should never be performed without actually replacing the main battery.

NO, no DTC's that is why I was presuming that something is wrong:)

@Usturmaca simply ask everything that is unclear. What do you want to do after you decoded the CEM?
Ich spreche übrigens auch deutsch, falls dir das lieber ist. 😉