P3 (V40II, V40CC, S60II, V60, XC60, V70III, XC70III, S80)

@T5-T6-Schnappi Thanks for the advice. The error code I’m getting is P0420, related to the catalytic converter. My engine has recently undergone an overhaul, with the pistons replaced due to oil consumption. Since the rebuild, the engine doesn't behave like it used to— there’s a tingling sensation on the steering wheel, and it feels like I’m driving a diesel.

Besides the comfort issues, fuel consumption has increased to about 9.5L/100km (before the repair, I averaged 7.5L/100km). Now (20 000km after rebuild) I’m also getting errors related to the lambda sensors. I know that the mechanic unfortunately didn't assemble the engine according to the official Volvo procedure—they didn't use the required locking tools and just relied on timing marks. Therefore, I am certain the balance shafts are incorrectly installed, but I’m also worried about the timing and the VVT settings.

I also know that this car can be quite tolerant of certain issues... for instance, when I had a faulty PCV system, no error code appeared, even though the crankcase pressure was clearly compromised.

@T5-T6-Schnappi Der Gurtwarner funktioniert übrigens auch nicht. Obwohl der Sicherheitsgurt nicht angelegt ist, kommt während der Fahrt kein Warnton.

Ich werde mir das SRS-Steuergerät genauer ansehen und euch anschließend berichten, was ich herausgefunden habe.

Vielen Dank für eure Hilfe und die ganzen Informationen. Leider habe ich bisher keinen kompetenten Ansprechpartner gefunden, deshalb muss ich mich selbst um die Fehlersuche kümmern.

@Remusrahau if you haven't bought the config or ultimate flat, you will first need to add credits(22EUR) to your account via the money button in the top right corner.

I recommend to connect a charger to your battery.
After connecting your car and waiting for all modules to load click on Security

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Click on Audio

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Click on Remove MOST security

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Click on Execute command

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After the process has finished, shut off the car, lock it and leave it alone for at least 15 minutes.

ITP should be off now.

@Gir Then it's just the issues mentioned in the guide plus one more and really important thing. Whenever a software update or reload is performed with VIDA, all changes done with Vdash will be reverted. This means configuration changes as well as keys that have been added will be removed. Tunes will only be overwritten when a software update/reload is done for the ECM.
Reading just codes or activating service functions with VIDA will work without any problems.
So, if you want to bring the car to a dealer for a service or repair you have to tell them to not perform software updates without your explicit consent.
Vdash is usually able to reapply all configuration changes if the car has been resetted to the factory configuration due to a software update. As long as the VIN is still connected to the account all changes have been initially been done with, this should be even possible for free.
The CEM pin as well as all other pins are fixed for your VIN and won't change no matter what happens. Even if a pin protected module like the CEM or ECM has to be replaced. The original pin will be written into that module again when it gets programmed with VIDA. Any pin you have cracked will always stay the same.

@akeker first of all. You have lots of low voltage errors. Replace both batteries first and perform a BMS reset afterwards.
To calibrate the FSM you need to drive the car for a while on a road with clearly visible markings and at good day light conditions after starting the calibration. That's it basically. It's also possible that your front radar needs a realignment.

Any progress on this? I would just as soon disable Volvo On Call and all warnings about the system. This is an intentional annoyance factor for people who don't pay a Volvo subscription...

Update to close the topic - since the ICM was responsive, I got a package prepared by d5t5, flashed it again (with German as base language for some reson) and then successfuly flashed to correct language. Happy ending, now I have a spare replacement module.

@Nirp Do you install everything according to VIDA/EWD? Additional wirings, HCM, level sensors, light switch, and so on. Or did you just swapped in the headlights. What option in Vdash did you select and what DTCs do you have?

Congratulations for finding this issue. That's really an unusual one.

I really don't want to be that guy, but you still should be concerned what is the real problem with your car. Why has there been a spacer installed, which would never be necessary on a healthy engine? And what caused that amount of carbon buildup to block it? This is definitely not normal. Your engine is either burning too much oil, has one or more bad injectors, low compression from worn piston rings and/or burnt exhaust valves, or you are simply using bad quality fuel. Or something else I currently don't think of. Whatever it is, your fix is most probaly just temporary.

@T5-T6-Schnappi every thing else is working fine so far.
Battery dead, secondary battery dead, some DCT here and there after a year of an ECU dropping 200mA in Off-State.
But every other Unit is answering Fine.

And thanks for the Adresse, contacted them 🙂

@johnzero 5 cylinder Diesel = ECM pin reading on the bench required.
https://d5t5.com/article/volvo-cem-pin-code

@pamie849 that sums it up. The official description doesn't mention anything about that. https://d5t5.com/article/scu-pair

@Doc https://svdns.info/2024/01/20/key-coding-p1p2p3-spa-cma/

Car is finally charging its batteries again on the land line.
After a lot of investigations on what chargers would fit the car, there is a bunch of different part numbers on the OBC for the v60, I ordered a used charger from the scrap yard. Internally and communication vise they should be basically the same and are interchangeable. However there are different lengths on the cables. My charger had the number 30659929 on it, but the one I ordered had the number 32202164. Turned out the AC cable and the cable to the DC/DC converter where shorter on the new charger one so I just swapped the lids on them. After resetting the error codes the car is now on the drive way charging its batteries and is soon ready for test drive.

It got to decode the ECM took about 48 hours luckily

@Prinz-Bernhard complete hardware change needed.
Here is little lecture about it. https://svdns.info/2023/08/27/so-youve-bought-an-import-volvo/

Greatings from the south of Berlin. 😉

It works for now.
It would be nice to be able to save the read parameters to a file (.txt or .csv). Is this possible?

@volveeta After changing parameters, you have to shut off the car and lock it long enough until all ecus are fully shut down. This can take up to 20 minutes. After that time all changes made "should" be active and in effect. For the first ERS attempt, you should drive around for a while and then leave the car locked and alone for a short period of time. If ERS is actived, but still not working, there usually are messages on the dash, which prerequisits are not okay. The car should be parked on halfway level ground, battery SOC over 80%, enough fuel in the tank, parking brake applied, no active DTCs in the ECM and TCM.
If you press any key on the fob, after the ERS is triggered, the car is immediatly shuts off.

BMS reset is only needed after replacing the main battery. The support battery has no sensor.
In your case simply do nothing. The battery management still adapts to the new battery, but it takes a little bit longer to be correct. Nothing to worry about. The BMS reset resets the battery timer, which is the only way to precisly tell the age of the battery or at least when it was installed in your car, and also tells the battery management to adapt to a new battery. This should never be performed without actually replacing the main battery.

NO, no DTC's that is why I was presuming that something is wrong:)