P3 (V40II, V40CC, S60II, V60, XC60, V70III, XC70III, S80)

Yeah, thats the steps I always do, this is the first time I get this message. DTC was orange, said it still was in service mode, but still cant exit. I did egnition off, restarted Vdash and loged in again got the same message. After that I just pulled the cable and after that it worked. But I still cant do install check.

Breaks do work now..

@Luigarma the easiest and cheapest way to accces all parameters provided by every single ecu of your car would be a mobile phone app called V-Tool in combination with a supported Bluetooth OBD-adapter. This app also allows accessing things like EPB service, service reset, BMS reset and so on via your mobile phone.
You won't get any information of your HV battery, besides the parameters, that are provided by the BECM. Here in germany there are some specialists that offer to calculate the remaining capacity of BEVs traction batteries by monitoring the charging and discharging while driving, but I have no idea if this would work for your car. Simply based on the age of your car, I would expect a drop in the total capacity of your HV battery by 20-30 % depending on the mileage compared to a new battery.

Fixed now,

Soft was loaded through VDash, guys make soft which work perfectly. less then 5 min job. D5T5 never let us down. Great service 👌

@SKanev that looks slightly burned. A professional flush would be the way to go, but based on your specific shifting issues, I think your valve body needs a rebuild or replacement. I just had a talk with a retired Volvo tech, and his reply after describing your specific problem was short and simple: "get a new valve body, everything else is a waste of time and money". Your symptoms are most probably the result of worn out or even cracked valve bores in the valve body. This seems to be a known problem especially with Gen.1 TF8Xs like yours.
If you're keen enough for this, you can also try to readjust your clutch control valves as described here but that is something I wouldn't do by myself.

Late here but a spacer installed on rear 02 sensor is a common USA hack when catalyst is setting codes.
The idea is to get rear O2 out of exhaust stream to try to even out the voltage swings that signal cat isn't working. After putting a spacer in, rear O2 volt swing is greatly reduced but average voltage is usually slightly higher than I would normally expect (.7 to .8v)

When I have tried it on SI6 cars (turbo or NA) they usually start to set rear O2 codes. I am guessing these cars use rear sensor for a secondary fuel trim check and not just looking for a flat line signal around .6v to prove cat is lit and working.

Anyone? I can't be the only one interested in this right?

@T5-T6-Schnappi Ich brauche den Schaltplan, zeigt, zu welchen Pin-Nummern am SRS-Airbag-Steuergerät der auf diesem Bild gezeigte Sensor führt.„Oder ehrlich gesagt weiß ich nicht, auf welches von den grünen ich mich konzentrieren soll.

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@Metsavend What excactly is your expectation after changing the CEM? The CEM of the V40 seems to be the same for all model years 2012-2019. Vdash should be able clone these to new or virginized CEMs if you have the write protection and IMMO pins of your old module.

Retrofitting keyless entry should be possible, but it's a hell of a job. Your car is most probably not prewired for this, so you have to install all the missing wiring. Also all the antennas needed and the door handles. then you can either install a used compatible module after extracting the KVM IMMO pin on the bench from it and adding this pin to Vdash. And hope that there are no other VIN specific codings needed to use it in your car. You will just need to change the CEM configuration with Vdash and should than be able to program keyless fobs to your car. But I cannot guarantee that this will work.

Or you have to talk to a Volvo dealer if he orders the configuration changes needed and also the software packages to programm a brand new KVM module and keyfobs to you car. This is most probably not possible with a subscription for private users as you need to be SERMI or NASTF VSP registered for IMMO/Key coding with VIDA. There might be independent Volvo repair shops with the required license and VIDA subscription level, but you will pay the same or even more than at an official dealer.

@Bartas222 the factory configuration for iTPMS looks like this.

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After changing any parameters with Vdash you have to shut down the car and lock it for at least 20 minutes to make sure the changes get properly applied.
The tyre monitor should be visible as seperate menu under "My Car".

@Bigv Do you have a check engine light now? This would mean there is another problem with your engine. Checksum errors don't trigger the CEL and can be ignored as long as the engine starts and runs without problems.
I can't help you with VIDA. Subscriptions for legit VIDA are only available for private users in the US, while I live in germany. Cracked offline versions like VIDA2014D are not able to do software reloads. Your tuner should have made a backup of your original software and should be able to restore it.
Reverting to stock software would also require to remove the blanking plate as the EGR would be reactivated.

Got the air con repaired. There was a wiring fault.

VOLVO XC70 2010 year

FYI It's a B4204T19 the 190 HP 2.0T VEA engine