P3 (V40II, V40CC, S60II, V60, XC60, V70III, XC70III, S80)

@T5-T6-Schnappi
Can it also be that the antenna amplifier is defective?

@330hpwagon I'm not sure if your car supports HDC. The official manuals mention HDC only from model years 2015.5 onward as this feature was officially introduced with the Cross Country models and is activated by default on these models only.
To use HDC you have to manually shift to 1st gear or R. You can't activate it when in D or above 7 km/h.
VIDA doesn't mention anything about specific hard- or software that has to be installed or that this function is only available from a specific structure week like other functions like ERS.
The DTCs in your BCM are also all yellow which means they are temporary/historic/not active while the others in red are permanent. The first one in the CEM is from LED bulbs at the license plate and can be ignored. The others should be the ones that you want to adress.

Why exactly do you even want to activate this function? I have a V60CC with this function and never felt the need to go downhill with less than 10 km/h.

@Usturmaca Hier ist dir Pinbelegung vom SRS Modul.

Ich denke aber, du solltest es mal VIDA versuchen.
Mit dieser Option um genau zu sein.

130448.png

130449.png

130450.png

Ob es diese Option auch in Vdash gibt weiß ich nicht. Wäre aber vermutlich einfacher falls du noch keine Erfahrungen mit VIDA.

@VolvoAugust The only way to get the pin is on the bench. You won't get information how to actually do this in this forum. The guys that know how to do it, usually don't share their knowledge to the public.

Thank you so much for your answer! I was told that and it was werid when I saw the message in vdash.
I will contact the vdash support, maybe they can help me with this issue.

I would suspect a defect wheel speed sensor, corroded sensor ring at one of the wheel bearings, or low battery voltage.
Put the car on a lift and check the signals of all sensors with an oscilloscope. The sensors could still be working, but the sensor rings could miss one or more teeth which results in sending nonsense signals to the BCM.

I've discovered that the ideal auto show display stand should complement the size, design, and overall presentation objectives of my car. A strong, well-made stand gives the exhibit a more polished, safe appearance. I keep 24 Hour NYC Towing Services in mind for trustworthy roadside assistance whenever I need it, even as I focus on presenting my vehicle.

@T5-T6-Schnappi Thanks for the advice. The error code I’m getting is P0420, related to the catalytic converter. My engine has recently undergone an overhaul, with the pistons replaced due to oil consumption. Since the rebuild, the engine doesn't behave like it used to— there’s a tingling sensation on the steering wheel, and it feels like I’m driving a diesel.

Besides the comfort issues, fuel consumption has increased to about 9.5L/100km (before the repair, I averaged 7.5L/100km). Now (20 000km after rebuild) I’m also getting errors related to the lambda sensors. I know that the mechanic unfortunately didn't assemble the engine according to the official Volvo procedure—they didn't use the required locking tools and just relied on timing marks. Therefore, I am certain the balance shafts are incorrectly installed, but I’m also worried about the timing and the VVT settings.

I also know that this car can be quite tolerant of certain issues... for instance, when I had a faulty PCV system, no error code appeared, even though the crankcase pressure was clearly compromised.

@Remusrahau if you haven't bought the config or ultimate flat, you will first need to add credits(22EUR) to your account via the money button in the top right corner.

I recommend to connect a charger to your battery.
After connecting your car and waiting for all modules to load click on Security

128333.jpg

Click on Audio

128334.jpg

Click on Remove MOST security

128331.jpg

Click on Execute command

128335.jpg

After the process has finished, shut off the car, lock it and leave it alone for at least 15 minutes.

ITP should be off now.

@Gir Then it's just the issues mentioned in the guide plus one more and really important thing. Whenever a software update or reload is performed with VIDA, all changes done with Vdash will be reverted. This means configuration changes as well as keys that have been added will be removed. Tunes will only be overwritten when a software update/reload is done for the ECM.
Reading just codes or activating service functions with VIDA will work without any problems.
So, if you want to bring the car to a dealer for a service or repair you have to tell them to not perform software updates without your explicit consent.
Vdash is usually able to reapply all configuration changes if the car has been resetted to the factory configuration due to a software update. As long as the VIN is still connected to the account all changes have been initially been done with, this should be even possible for free.
The CEM pin as well as all other pins are fixed for your VIN and won't change no matter what happens. Even if a pin protected module like the CEM or ECM has to be replaced. The original pin will be written into that module again when it gets programmed with VIDA. Any pin you have cracked will always stay the same.

@akeker first of all. You have lots of low voltage errors. Replace both batteries first and perform a BMS reset afterwards.
To calibrate the FSM you need to drive the car for a while on a road with clearly visible markings and at good day light conditions after starting the calibration. That's it basically. It's also possible that your front radar needs a realignment.

Any progress on this? I would just as soon disable Volvo On Call and all warnings about the system. This is an intentional annoyance factor for people who don't pay a Volvo subscription...

Update to close the topic - since the ICM was responsive, I got a package prepared by d5t5, flashed it again (with German as base language for some reson) and then successfuly flashed to correct language. Happy ending, now I have a spare replacement module.

@Nirp Do you install everything according to VIDA/EWD? Additional wirings, HCM, level sensors, light switch, and so on. Or did you just swapped in the headlights. What option in Vdash did you select and what DTCs do you have?

Congratulations for finding this issue. That's really an unusual one.

I really don't want to be that guy, but you still should be concerned what is the real problem with your car. Why has there been a spacer installed, which would never be necessary on a healthy engine? And what caused that amount of carbon buildup to block it? This is definitely not normal. Your engine is either burning too much oil, has one or more bad injectors, low compression from worn piston rings and/or burnt exhaust valves, or you are simply using bad quality fuel. Or something else I currently don't think of. Whatever it is, your fix is most probaly just temporary.

@T5-T6-Schnappi every thing else is working fine so far.
Battery dead, secondary battery dead, some DCT here and there after a year of an ECU dropping 200mA in Off-State.
But every other Unit is answering Fine.

And thanks for the Adresse, contacted them 🙂

@johnzero 5 cylinder Diesel = ECM pin reading on the bench required.
https://d5t5.com/article/volvo-cem-pin-code

@pamie849 that sums it up. The official description doesn't mention anything about that. https://d5t5.com/article/scu-pair

@Doc https://svdns.info/2024/01/20/key-coding-p1p2p3-spa-cma/

Car is finally charging its batteries again on the land line.
After a lot of investigations on what chargers would fit the car, there is a bunch of different part numbers on the OBC for the v60, I ordered a used charger from the scrap yard. Internally and communication vise they should be basically the same and are interchangeable. However there are different lengths on the cables. My charger had the number 30659929 on it, but the one I ordered had the number 32202164. Turned out the AC cable and the cable to the DC/DC converter where shorter on the new charger one so I just swapped the lids on them. After resetting the error codes the car is now on the drive way charging its batteries and is soon ready for test drive.