@aiveo I just noticed you already cracked the IMMO. Just run the key wizard then, and don't forget to attach a good charger to the car while doing this.

@aiveo to code a new ignition key you first have to decode the IMMO pin. This should be the option, if my translator is correct. After that you can add new keys. The key wizard allows to just add the key without having to pair the remote part. Vdash should also show you how many keys and remotes are currently paired with your car.

"Engine service required" means there is one or more active error codes (DTCs) stored in the engine control module (ECM). You should see them after connecting Vdash and wait for all ecus to load. Best practice is to make a screenshot of all codes shown and clear them (ignition pos. II, ignition on, engine not running!). After that turn off the ignition for a moment, than start the car and rev around 1500 RPM for a moment, than read codes again and see what codes came back.

@volveeta After changing parameters, you have to shut off the car and lock it long enough until all ecus are fully shut down. This can take up to 20 minutes. After that time all changes made "should" be active and in effect. For the first ERS attempt, you should drive around for a while and then leave the car locked and alone for a short period of time. If ERS is actived, but still not working, there usually are messages on the dash, which prerequisits are not okay. The car should be parked on halfway level ground, battery SOC over 80%, enough fuel in the tank, parking brake applied, no active DTCs in the ECM and TCM.
If you press any key on the fob, after the ERS is triggered, the car is immediatly shuts off.

@volveeta the correct press sequence is short press on the lock button, looong press on the light button.
After enabling ERS by setting the 2 parameters, you have to leave the car locked for 15-20 minutes and than drive around for a while, maybe 10-15 minutes. Than lock the car again with parking brake applied and wait for maybe 15 minutes before you try it.

Stupid question. Did you try a fresh set of batteries in the fob. And are you patient enough? After pressing the lock button, you must be really quick to switch to the light button and hold that until the hazard lights are flashing

@sizan could you make a list what has already been done/checked?

Do you have error messages in the DIM after trying ERS?

Did you change both options mentioned in this article https://d5t5.com/article/remote-engine-start-from-car-key-ers
And did you wait long enough (15-20 minutes) after the car was locked, before you tried ERS?

@Arnis2002 With checking injectors I mean performing an injector fuel return test, which can also be seen in the picture I posted. This simple test consist of unplugging the small fuel return hoses from the injectors, and watching and comparing the amount of leaking fuel of all 4 injectors while the engine is running. This simple test is an indicator to diagnose worn injectors, and can be easily done without removing them from the engine. Every professional mechanic I know, would do exactly this test together with a smoke test of the whole inlet, based on the symptoms reported.

Installing tuning software without doing a proper diagnose to fix potential engine problems is a somewhat special suggestion.

If you have a supported adapter, you could just connect your car to vdash, and simply click through the advanced configuration options, to see what is possible or not with your car. This way you can find out if Vdash is useful for you or not, before you spend money for nothing.

@Peter-Dahl Vdash and similar software might be partially able to help you with this. Vdash modifies the configuration table in the CEM, but can only change parameters, that are actually available and supported in this table. Setting optional modules like Radio, electrical seats, heated steering wheel and so on to "not installed" should be no problem. But structural modules like door modules, SRS and such, only have parameters to set their behavior for certain markets or functions at best, but "not installed" is not part of those parameters for those modules, as these are always installed to every car built and therefore expected to be always present.
Maybe there is some sort of CAN bus emulator, that can simulate the presence of all those modules you removed. But this forum might not be the right place to look for such informations.

@McVolvo How about providing more information? What car, what modelyear, what engine code, which DTCs are present in the car, what has already been done to solve your issue? My first guess would be wrong plugs, clogged fuel filter, or intake leak.

@sizan I understand what you mean. Uneven combustion under constant or no load. This is usually caused by low fuel pressure, worn injectors, leaks or massive carbon build up in the intake . Did you already do basic things like clean the MAF and MAP sensors? Replacing the fuel filter? Use something like this to check the injectors?
Bad software could also be a problem, but the last thing I would suspect. Tuned/modified software should also trigger a DTC for a checksum error in the ECM.
If you want to flash other software anyway, you will need a good charger, a good adapter like the Super J2534 and maybe the ECM pin, if this engine already has that. The CEM pin is not needed for flashing the ECM.

@T5-T6-Schnappi how do the tires look? Are they really round, or are there sign of sawtoothes or nonsymetric wear? When was the last allignment done on both axles?

@sizan Ori means just EGR and DPF removed from the software, but no tuning. If you flash this software, you will need to install a blanking plate on the EGR https://d5t5.com/eshop/detail/41/egr-zaslepka-2-0d
In the optimization menu should also be an option to check if the car is running with original or tampered software.
The shaking you describe can also be a sign of a worn suspension, imbalanced/worn out drive shafts, worn engine mounts, worn transmission mounts, worn subframe bushings and so on...
What parts have been replaced, and what quality was used? Aftermarket /original? When was the shaking first recognized, or did it appear after something was done on the car?

@aiveo the language change is no problem with vdash. This doesn't require any pin code, just a good quality adapter like the Super J2534 and a good power supply/charger.

As for your key problem. You will need the IMMO pin to program a key . And you need to read out the car for how many keys are paired with the immobilizer and if there are any IMMO DTCs. Pairing your not working key again should be possible without the code card. The security codes are only for the fob part of the key. The big problem here is, that the ID48 chip (Transponder) https://d5t5.com/eshop/detail/241/id48-immobilizer-chip-for-p2-and-p1 in that key could be damaged, so the fob still works for locking/unlocking, but the immobilizer doesn't recognize the key to start the car anymore. Another problem with your car is general immobilizer problems. The 2.0 D is infamous for loss/corruption of immobilizer data. Vdash is able to fix this.

General tip for all V50s, especially with your engine, always keep an close eye on the battery. Low voltage conditions will bring you really big trouble on these cars.

@Leinth if you are using a Bluetooth OBD-adapter and a mobile app, you could try an app called V-Tool https://v-tool.app/ This app reads codes and live data on the same level as VIDA or Vdash and presents them also in the same code format and is also able to perform lots of service functions, but without the need for a laptop and cables. The only downside is, it currently still lacks support for freeze frame data, which could be problematic when you are chasing temporary errors. But you need a decent adapter that supports highspeed and lowspeed CAN, which is only supported by a few little bit more expensive adapters. Here is a list of tested and recommended adapters https://v-tool.app/supported-obd-adapters/
Your P0420 already gave away that you are not using a Volvo specific scanner, as VIDA and Vdash use a slightly different code format. P0420 would be ECM-P042000 in the Volvo Format.

@MarkusC30T5 what options do you see, when you connect vdash and click on the TCM after all ecus have been loaded?

@alienek if you know which hw-numbers are hard or even impossible to crack, would it be possible to add a warning message to Vdash for those units, so users know that the slow cracking speed or failed/impossible cracking is expected? Do you also know if such problems exist for certain P3 CEMs? My 2018 V60CC took around 130 hours to crack, if I remember correctly, which wasn't a big deal for me. But anyway, knowing that you have to expect much more than usual time for cracking before you even start would be really nice, and will definitely will result in less frustration on the user side. Especially as there are lots of complaints and irritations about vdash regarding cracking and also lack support in general, if you look across popular Volvo forums.

@Vreaper the old VIDA indead had problems with high resolutions. You had to use the right mouse button to select ecus in the network and communication tab. But zooming was never a problem.