I would suspect a defect wheel speed sensor, corroded sensor ring at one of the wheel bearings, or low battery voltage.
Put the car on a lift and check the signals of all sensors with an oscilloscope. The sensors could still be working, but the sensor rings could miss one or more teeth which results in sending nonsense signals to the BCM.

@ZaanTerror Do you mean 26H1/26H2?
I have just set up a new laptop with 25H2 and your latest version of VIDA. .NET was installed without needing to download the installer seperately.

@Cookie_69 wrong forum for such questions. Vdash won't be useful for any of your questions.
Engines with Bosch throttle body require a different ECM. Those ECMs are not compatible with your CEM, so you need another CEM and somehow adopt it to your car. And so on.... Absolutely not worth it. You will basically need to update your whole car to the electronics of a 2005+ Model.
Get the correct engine for your car, or scrap it and get a new car.

@NA This is usually done automatically by ZaanTerrors installer when .NET 3.5 isn't present on your system while all prerequisites for VIDA are checked and installed. You just have to click on the correct button when the system dialogue to install .NET 3.5 pops up.

See the install guide here

@Mustapha You are correct. The car has some premium options like leather seats. I must have overlooked that. But it still is a manual. If the clutch, flywheel haven't been replaced yet, you will face a four digit repair bill very soon based on the kilometers on the clock.

As for just changing the switch. That won't work on your current car. There is no switch for front fog lights and automatic halogen headlights. DRLs and the function for automatically turning on halogen headlights was introduced in cars from structure week 2010/44 onwards. Your car is a 2008 and doesn't support that "out of the box". You would need to build your own custom light switch by combining part numbers 31318937 and 30739300 for example. And you also would need to test which CEM configuration would work on your car for this function. And you might also need to add wires from the switch to the CEM as well as relais in the CEM. There is no guarantee that this is possible at all. VIDA and EWD contain allmost all information needed for this kind of retrofit, but it's up to you if you want to spend time and money for trying to get this to work. Comparing wiring diagrams and pin outs of the LSM and CEM from a 2008 and 2012 car would be a good starting point.

@Ciasto all configurations that are stored in the CEM will be reverted. If you did a market change, the car will be reverted to it's original market. As long as the VIN is still connected to your account and hasn't been connected to another Vdash account, all options for doing these changes again should be unlocked/useable without having to pay again. Changes you did via the engineering mode of the Sensus won't be affected. Changes done via Vdash will be reverted. This means all configuration changes, retrofits, market changes, added keys and so on. Installed tunes will only be overwritten if a software update is performed on the ECM.

@pvm I can't tell you if Vdash is capable to clone HCMs on SPAs. But you will see if this option is available in the clone menu. CEM pin shouldn't be required for this. Your ENET/DoIP adapter is perfect for software updates/cloning and recommended on SPAs. J2534 is only for older plattforms and also good for pin cracking on SPAs up to 2021.

You need a software update. Part number 32398268. Official VIDA subscription or trip to the dealer required. There is no other way to fix this.

@DanForester If any off these values would be out of range you would immidiatly get a CEL, limp mode and one or more DTCs. You can also look the values up in VIDA. If you don't have VIDA, ask for a copy here.

@Ciasto I forgot something important. If you add a keyfob with VIDA all changes done with vdash will be reverted.

@Mustapha That car has Halogens and day light running lights, but no fog lights. So automatic headlights is possible with this configuration. The description from the dealer is wrong. It also doesn't look like it was initially build for the german market. It might have been registered in germany before it was sold to netherland. But the first license plate that car ever had was most probably italian, eastern european or russian, simply because there is literally not a single premium option installed, which is really unusual for german cars.
A close look at the configuration that is stored in the CEM would reveal for which market the car was really build. The price for that car is also, lets say, optimistic.

@Ciasto to program keyless fobs with Vdash you need the KVM IMMO pin. This pin can't be cracked. The only way to get this pin is to remove the KVM module from the car and read the pin "on the bench" with special tools and software.
Your other option would be pairing a non-keyless 5-button fob. This is possible without the KVM IMMO pin.
The correct frequency is shown by Vdash. It should be 902 MHz for US cars.
You also need to crack the CEM and IMMO pin (not the same as the KVM IMMO pin) before you can add any keyfob. This is possible with Vdash.
In short
Adding 5-button fob - > CEM pin, IMMO pin needed, no keyless function
Adding 6-button fob - > CEM pin, IMMO pin, KVM IMMO pin needed
Your only alternative to add a keyless fob is a legit VIDA subscription which should be accessible to you, if you live in the US Here

@Ciasto first off all is your car keyless or not, and have you bought a fob with the correct frequency for your car?

@Usturmaca So, die Anleitungen zum SRS ausbauen findest Du hier
VIDA sagt übrigens zu so ziemlich allen deinen Fehlern Stromversorgung vom SRS prüfen, oder Kontakt zwischen SRS Gehäuse und Karosserie prüfen.

@Usturmaca Die Stecker und Steuergeräte im Innenraum sind, im Gegensatz zum Motorraum und unterm Auto, nicht wasserdicht. Wenn da Wasser oder ähnliches drüber läuft kann es durchaus Schäden geben.

War eigentlich die Sicherung vom SRS kaputt, oder hast du die nur so auf Verdacht getauscht? Evtl. musst du das Modul dann gar nicht freilegen, falls die Sicherung durch war. In VIDA gibt's eine Funktion zum freischalten/aktivieren der Stromversorgung fürs SRS wenn das Teil länger ohne Strom war. Ob es in Vdash eine ähnliche Funktion gibt, kann ich Dir gerade nicht sagen. Ich hab das allerdings auch noch nie nutzen müssen.
In VIDA zu finden unter DIAGNOSTIK/Fahrzeugkommunikation/SRS/Erweitert

Eine Anleitung für den Ausbau vom SRS lade ich dir später noch hoch wenn ich mehr Zeit habe.

Prinzipiell ist bei allen Arbeiten an Airbag/Gurtstraffer/SRS die Batterie abzuklemmen und mit versehentlichem zünden der Airbags zu rechnen. Auch ohne angeschlossene Batterie. Ist zwar sehr unwahrscheinlich aber nicht unmöglich. Deshalb möglichst immer Gehörschutz tragen und nicht direkt vor irgendeinem Airbag sitzen wenn du irgendwelche Stecker einsteckst oder trennst.

@Usturmaca Diese Boxen sind zwar für kurze Haltbarkeit bekannt, aber eher nicht für die Probleme, die du hast. Die Fehlercodes aus deinem ersten Post kommen bei näherer Betrachtung größtenteils alle vom nicht ansprechbaren SRS Modul.

Hat dein Wagen eigentlich ein Schiebedach?

@Usturmaca Also die Hilfsbatterie messen bringt wenig. Die müsste man mit ordentlich Last dran testen ob da die Spannung zusammenbricht.

Eigentlich sollte der Einbau einer neuen Hilfsbatterie eher einige deiner Fehler verschwinden lassen als sogar noch neue produzieren.

Ist bei deinem Wagen irgendwas elektronisches nachgerüstet worden? Dashcam, GPS-Tracker, anderes Radio?
Die vielen Kommunikationsfehler kommen normalerweise von zu wenig oder zuviel Spannung. Bei zuviel Spannung gibt's aber eigentlich einen eindeutigen Fehlercode im BCM.
Und das dein SRS trotz neuer Sicherung nicht kommuniziert ist halt auch komisch.
Am besten also mal das SRS suchen und näher betrachten. Und auch den Kabelbaum vom SRS Richtung CEM mal näher ansehen. Wenn das SRS nicht gerade mit irgendeinem Getränk geduscht wurde, bleibt eigentlich nur noch ein durchgescheuertes Kabel irgendwo oder ein loser/rostiger gemeinsamer Masseanschluss für alle Module die da Fehlercodes haben. Leider sind die entsprechenden Dokumente für dein Baujahr nur in einem echt unübersichtlichen Dateiformat zu bekommen. Bis 2014 gab's noch PDFs. Im Zweifel gehen die Dokumente für MJ14 aber auch noch für deinen Wagen. So viel hat sich trotz Facelift nicht geändert an der Verlegung der Kabel und Massepunkten.
Gibt's hier

@Remusrahau if you haven't bought the config or ultimate flat, you will first need to add credits(22EUR) to your account via the money button in the top right corner.

I recommend to connect a charger to your battery.
After connecting your car and waiting for all modules to load click on Security

Click on Audio

Click on Remove MOST security

Click on Execute command

After the process has finished, shut off the car, lock it and leave it alone for at least 15 minutes.

ITP should be off now.

@Usturmaca Wenn das SRS Modul nicht kommuniziert, was die Anzeige in rot ja bedeutet, bringt das gar nichts.
Wenn die Batterie lange genug abgeklemmt ist, werden alle Fehler einmal gelöscht. Temporäre Fehler kommen dann auch erstmal nicht zurück. Ist quasi das gleiche wie klicken auf delete all DTCs.
Warum die neue Batterie die ganzen Fehler produziert hat, ist mir ein Rätsel. Solange du beim anklemmen keine zitternden Finger hattest, macht das gar keinen Sinn für mich.

@ButterMackrel basically any J2534 compliant adapter will work. The problem with cheap ones like the one you advertised is that they might not work at all, can even damage your CEM the first time you plug them in, or will fail after some time as they don't have the correct internals/are build with low quality parts. The original Atmel chipset which can be found in the Super J2534/Mongoose Pro sold by D5T5 and it's partners costs much more than 40 Dollars. If an Mongoose adapter costs less than that it's 100% low quality. Most of those low price adapters are not even Mongoose clones. Instead they are crap like Vxdiag/Vxnano or Scanmatic SMII inside a mongoose shell.