@unysea Here is the pinout in german anyway

@Nuki Moin aus Berlin!
Deine Frage ist zwar schon ein bisschen älter, aber trotzdem würde mich interessieren ob Du irgendwo eine brauchbare Antwort bekommen hast? Prinzipiell könntest du die Stand-/ Zusatzheizung komplett deaktivieren. Aber dann ist sie halt permanent komplett aus.
Warum möchtest Du das überhaupt machen? Zumindest der Verbrauch von rund 1 Liter Diesel pro Stunde ist im Vergleich zu den finanziellen Folgen vom regelmäßigen Fahren mit kaltem Motor geradezu lächerlich.

Look it up in VIDA under Information/Specifications, electrical. If you don't have VIDA, ask @ZaanTerror in this thread https://forum.d5t5.com/post/674
What exact problems do you have? In 90% of all cases MAF errors are a follow up error of another problem, while the MAF is still okay.

@sangcXL3 I first stopped VIDA Monitor and all SQL services, then I uninstalled the old VIDA, everything related to SQL, and Isoview with their uninstallers. Rebooted the computer. And then I manually deleted all folders related to VIDA, Volvo, Isoview and Microsoft SQL. This is quite tricky as lots of those folders are hidden. Look into the subfolders of C:/ProgramData/ (hidden); C:/users/{yourWindowsusername}/AppData/ (hidden) press Windows-key together with R and then simply enter AppData and press Enter to open this folder; C:/Program Files (x86)/Common Files/; C:/Program Files/Common Files/. I also removed several registry keys in HKLM\SOFTWARE\ and HKLM\SOFTWARE\WOW6432Node.
After another reboot the new VIDA installed without problems.

@MarkusC30T5 Hello Markus, did you solve your problem?
Just out of curiosity, how did you fill in the ATF? Did you remove any screw, or did you use the dip stick opening? Removing any screw from the top of an AW55 would explain your problems, but would also mean that your transmission has turned into worthles scrap metal.

@OVIDIU you need a VOE adapter. This one https://d5t5.com/eshop/detail/181/voe-9513108-replacement for example.

BMS reset is only needed after replacing the main battery. The support battery has no sensor.
In your case simply do nothing. The battery management still adapts to the new battery, but it takes a little bit longer to be correct. Nothing to worry about. The BMS reset resets the battery timer, which is the only way to precisly tell the age of the battery or at least when it was installed in your car, and also tells the battery management to adapt to a new battery. This should never be performed without actually replacing the main battery.

@XC90-joch Obbe is a partner of D5T5 and makes all tunes for Vdash. So I would expect him to deliver the same adapters as D5T5, with the same quality and 100% tested to work as expected. You might want to check the USB connector of your adapter. There was a bad batch of adapters which had connectors that got damaged in USB ports that are a little bit to tight.
Here is some info about it https://svdns.info/2024/12/09/super-j2534-v2/

@Vreaper I have the same issue with the zoomed in isoview window, but only under Win 10 on a laptop that had another version of VIDA installed before I switched to ZaanTerrors Version. I can zoom in and out with the mouse wheel and with a pinch-and-zoom gesture on the trackpad. But here comes the weird part, if I boot this laptop from a Windows to go USB drive with Win 11 and clean install of VIDA, this issue doesn't occur. So my conclusion is, there is something left from a previous version of Isoview or VIDA that causes this. Maybe a registry entry or some sort of config file.

@Leinth the absolute fuel pressure should be around 480+-5 kPa or 380+-5 kPa relative pressure at idle RPM, transmission in neutral and warm engine, and the duty cycle of the fuel pump should be around 50%+-10%.

@Leinth piston rings are only an issue on engines made from 2010 to 2013, but you still might want to do a cylinder leak test on all 6 cylinders to be sure. A compression test is useless on this engine. My 2010 S60 T6 had a broken piston and worn rings on all cylinders, and still passend 2 compression tests, but failed immediately on a leak test. You might also want to take a look at the outlet valves with an endoscope. These tend to burn and start leaking. This can also cause lean codes, but would also have side effects like random misfiring under load. Loose valve seats are also a rare problem., but really unlikely. The injectors of the SI6 engines are also not of the long lasting type, but a failing injector usually gives "too rich" codes together with misfiring, as they tend to start dripping/leaking.
And as your mechanic is incapable to find the problem, it is some sort of puzzle. The ECM of this engine has over 300 check routines that give specific DTCs for all kinds of problems, if they occur. So knowing the exact error codes is vital for a usefull fault tracing instead of firing the parts canon and wild guessing. This is why I asked which codes you had, since you are having this problem. Even temporary codes might lead in the right direction, especially if there is a detailed set of freeze frame data stored together with the code.
If you're willing to spend money on wild guessing, you can replace the fuel pressure sensor. This part is infamous for degrading over time and report slightly incorrect data to the ECM which cause all kinds of weird problems. Too low fuel pressure at the injectors is one of them. This is why I suggested to look at the fuel pressure and duty cycle of the fuel pump. To rule that out.
A degrading cat at your milage is pretty unlikely, except the car was driven with really low quality fuel for vast parts of its life.

@sizan first of all. Always replace both batteries at the same time. They are both of equal age and wear level. Charge new batteries before you install them, this is really important. After changing the main battery, you have to perform a BMS reset. In Vdash this function can be found by clicking on the CEM under the advanced options. After this reset is done, lock the car and leave it alone for at least 4 hours.

@Leinth Did you buy the car with this problem, or did it appear some time after you bought it?

@Leinth After thinking a little bit more about your problem, I have some more questions. Are you 100 % sure that your downpipe/cat is still original? Your symptoms are also really typicall for T5s and T6s that got a "High-flow"-downpipe installed, but no proper remap to adress the much faster turbo spool up, which is a 110% guaranty to get lean codes. As you installed a spacer, I'm more suspicious, as this is the standard solution to circumvent this problem. Are you also sure that the O2 sensor is still the factory one? Volvos absolutely don't like aftermarket sensors, especially O2 and MAF, the same goes for aftermarket spark plugs. You also mentioned that the sensor reading is somewhat inconsistent. Did you check the connections and cables between the sensor and the ECM?

Lean codes mean there's more O2 in the exhaust gases than the MAF metered. This can be caused by a dirty MAF, vacuum leaks, exhaust leaks, PCV leak, too low fuel pressure, and so on....
So, you should first clean the MAF with special MAF cleaner and don't use "sport" air filters.
Could you also please post the exact temporary and permant codes you have seen since you have that problem? Solving a puzzle without all parts is impossible.
Lean code after hard driving sounds like an exhaust leak, so check the connection between cylinder head and turbo manifold. Burnt gaskets and loose/missing bolts on the manifold are really common on T6s that get frequently floored.
Also check the PCV/oil trap and the small hose from the PCV towards the intake pipe. If your car "whistles" after cold start, replace the PCV.
Also check the duty cycle of the fuel pump and fuel pressure while driving.
What fuel are you using? Anything below 98 octane is a no-go if you floor it on a regular basis.

@XC90-joch Windows Defender and firewall usually don't make any problems with Vdash. But you might want to create an exeption for Vdash in the defender by adding the hidden install path "C:\Users{YourWindowsUserName}\AppData\Local\VDASH" to the list of excluded folders and also add C:\Users{YourWindowsUserName}\AppData\Local\VDASH\VDASH2\Frontend.exe and C:\Users{YourWindowsUserName}\AppData\Local\VDASH\VDASH2\Vdash.Frontend.exe to the list of excluded processes/files.
Also check the active power plan of Windows. For the cracking it should be set to "high performance". Also check the power saving setting of the USB ports and disable any power saving modes.
And the most important question. Where did you buy your adapter? 95% of all Mongoose/Super J2534 adapters sold on chinese plattforms don't use the original Atmel chipset and perform like crap.

@XC90-joch could you do a test with a different charger, or for some short time period (few minutes) without a charger attached? Some chargers create heavy interferences that make the cracking really slow or even impossible. You should also remove any third party security software from your Vdash laptops, as some of those interfere with Vdash. Avast, Norton, Avira for example. Could you also test at a different time of the day, to rule out excessive server load caused by too many users online at the same time and/or ongoing ddos-attacks, that also happen from time to time.

@Leinth Can you please post a list with all DTCs in the car? How many kilometers do you have on the clock, and does your engine consume oil? If yes, how much? The 3 liter T6 is known for high oil consumption due to low quality pistons and piston rings, which destroys/melts the cat over time. Also loose/broken studs at the exhaust manifold are really common, as well as cracked turbo/exhaust manifolds. Is the car tuned or stock?

If you connect Vdash, do you see a software update for the TCM? Volvo has update the TCM software somewhere in the past to address problems such as yours. Rough shifting and different error codes related to it. No PINs needed for that.

Is the car tuned or stock?