31423316 has been confirmed by a befriended volvo mechanic. So that should be correct. Browsing used parts the one that ends on 15 are found on vehicles without, and the one ending on 16 on with acc

@SU-AM Removing the pressure sensor will drain the AC. You will need to evacuate/empty to whole AC via a vacuum pump and then refill it with R134a without letting any air going in the system. I can't tell you the exact amount of refrigerant. Stay away from those DIY refill sets. You will make more damage than you can even think of by using this crap. Fill in to much and you damage several parts of the AC. Fill in too less and the AC won't work and you will also create damages.
Visit a garage that has the special tools and experience that are required for this and let them do it the proper way.

@InfinityBG https://www.volvocars.com/uk/support/car/v60/16w46/article/74259aa7e21a5a62c0a801e800c6d3d7/b32a1ff6319a6debc0a801e80116f8e9/0e7b49515a867a4dc0a801e800d22be7/

Awesome, glad to hear thanks for your help!

@bastienlaf If you manage to get access to VIDA and find out how to add options with it, then yes. That's the best and safest way to do it, as all changes get registered at the PIE servers in sweden and become part of the car configuration known to Volvo. But VIDA is only available to private users in the US and Canada. In the rest of the world you need to own a VAT registered garage to get VIDA. And some functions are also a "dealer only" thing. Adding options and keys might be some of those things, as VIDA has different levels of access rights and functions that you can subscribe for. And some functions are simply not available on non-dealer accounts.
And VIDA would also be the most expensive way to go. The subscription costs money. And every software download also costs money. And syncing used parts is also not possible for a lot of modules. If a module needs software to work, chances are high that you can't sync it to your car with VIDA without getting it somehow virginized by a specialist beforehand.

Vdash can't add keys/fobs on any SPA. You will need an official VIDA subscription for this.
According to this parts catalogue https://volvoparts.barrybourke.com.au/a/Volvo_2023_XC60-20l-4-cylinder-Turbo/_51513_12299541/Remote-control-key-system/GR-448363.html the fobs sold by D5T5 should work for your car if you take a look at the part numbers. But to be sure open your existing fob and compare the FCC ID and IC number on the circuit board.

@Ceco Vdash can't sync/program used VCMs to your VIN. You need to find another way. Orbit and VIDA also can't be used for this. Sorry.

Update to close the topic - since the ICM was responsive, I got a package prepared by d5t5, flashed it again (with German as base language for some reson) and then successfuly flashed to correct language. Happy ending, now I have a spare replacement module.

Transfer the chip separately

Currently, ECM is unable to provide direct query.

Ich wohne im Wedding, bin aber mobil, da das Auto ja komplett fahrtüchtig ist. Die D5T5-Partnersuche ergab für mich leider keinerlei Erfolg, entweder waren die Nummern falsch, oder es ist niemand ans Telefon gegangen. Deswegen mein verzweifelter Formusbeitrag.

Grüße ausm Wedding!

@bochenn Does your car have LPG/CNG? If not, ignore this warning, it's a generic warning as some cars similar to yours are equipped with aftermarket LPG/CNG units, that can and will interfere with the operation of Vdash. Click on "This VIN has NOT LPG unit mounted, do not show this warning anymore." and forget that you saw this message.
If you have LPG/CNG pull the associated fuse and select "The car has LPG unit mounted and is turned OFF (do not show this warning later today)."
If you are sure that you will never connect any car with LPG/CNG to your account select the last option.

@bochenn after looking over your configuration I'm almost 100% sure that your car doesn't have a FSM and therefor no AHB. You don't have collision warning, traffic sign indication, lane keeping or adaptive cruise control which is a clear sign of "no FSM".
Do you see your headlights leveling themself when you turn them on? Maybe park in front of a wall and take a closer look. You should see the light going up and down right after you turn them on. If not, the leveling is not working which means new (used) headlights. The same goes for the bending light function. Turn the steering wheel and see if the light follows. You can also activate these functions in VIDA (Diagnostic/Vehicle communication/CEM/Activations) to test it. Also check fuse nr. 16
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@bochenn what exactly is your problem? The Vdash login is a two-step-process. First you enter your email adress, on the next screen, that you posted, you enter your password. If the field to enter the password is missing, make sure that all updates for Windows and. Net 4.8 are installed. Have you already tried to simply reboot Windows? If you have any 3rd party antivirus/security software installed, set it to permanently disabled, reboot the computer and try again.
Don't use Vdash in a VM or on Windows 7.

@Nirp Do you install everything according to VIDA/EWD? Additional wirings, HCM, level sensors, light switch, and so on. Or did you just swapped in the headlights. What option in Vdash did you select and what DTCs do you have?

@Gosta The warnings are there because it is possible that the airbags are firing by accident. Usually nothing like should happen. Delete the DTCs from outside the car and wear ear protection. Just in case...😎
The DTCs are most probapbly the result of the low battery, but as your IAM seems to be offline/not communicating at all, you should first check all fuses.
You should also connect a charger/tender. 12,3V is way too low to programm your car.
And if you have any 3rd party antivirus/security/VPN program installed set it to permanently disabled and reboot the computer.

@Puppi Ich würde erstmal alle Fehler löschen und sehen was wieder kommt. Sowohl bei nur Zündung an, als auch bei Motor an und fahren. Dann würde ich zunächst mal mit den Aktivierungen in VIDA (Diagnostik/Fahrzeugkommunikation/ECM/Aktivierungen) und Multimeter anfangen, ob überhaupt Spannung ankommt bzw. ab welchem Punkt es keine mehr gibt. Bzw. erstmal hören/fühlen ob Ventile und Pumpe arbeiten, oder nicht.
Hat der Wagen ein Schiebedach? Wenn ja, dann schau dir als Erstes die Sicherungskästen hinterm Handschuhfach an, ob da alles trocken ist. Das gleiche für den Sicherungskasten im Kofferraum hinten links. Da mal nachsehen ob er trocken ist, auch ohne SD. Schau auch mal nach ob überhaupt Kühlmittel für die Batteriekühlung da ist. Im Kofferraum hinten rechts ist der Ausgleichsbehälter dafür. Ansonsten sitzen die beiden Pumpen im Kofferraum hinterm Stoßfänger, und das Ventil müsste rechts hinten am Unterboden in der Nähe vom Rad sitzen.

@Shawn327 the circumfence is only relevant for the speedo and odometer. The transmission works with some sort of mappings based on calculated engine load/calculated torque requirement, and decides based on that when to shift up/down. You will need to modify the ECM and TCM software for a different shifting behavior.

Another thing you should keep in mind is, that much bigger circumfence means more torque needed to get the car moving under all driving circumstances. This results in much higher mechanical stress to the whole drivetrain under all driving conditions. Especially your angle gear and transmission are facing a higher torque load whenever you accelerate. Expect that you need to service or even rebuild them in the very near future. You should at least flush the transmission, angle gear, differentials and Haldex at a very regular and short interval.