@Ctrl-alt-delete before you start to fire the parts canon, you should know that 90%of all MAF codes are follow up errors of other problems. Old/weak batteries, dirty MAP sensor, dirty throttle body, carbon build up in the EGR/EGR cooler. There is also a technical journal about a design flaw in the EGR cooler of older VEA diesels, that triggers P010000 and requires replacing EGR and cooler with redesigned parts.
The data you have collected is also not really useful, unless you find the signal specifications of the ECM, to check if everything is in the desired range. This data can be found in the online version of VIDA which is not accessible for private user, unless you live in the US. VIDA also has detailed explanations what triggers code XYZ and an associated fault trace with things to check, to find the cause for the code. This kind of vital information can hardly be found in the internet.
You also should know that Volvos don't like aftermarket sensors. Replacing the MAF with an aftermarket part might not solve your issue, if it's really the MAF.
Your first step should be to get a good Volvo capable diag tool and scan the car with that. Not only the ECM, all ecus. A dead battery for example will trigger several communication codes in several ecus. You should also take a look at the freeze frame data, that is stored together with the code and consists of a set of data/parameters that happened in the moment when the code was stored, which could be helpfull to identify some problems.

The J2534 is a complicated SAE standard that describes/specifies all kinds of communication protocols between all ecus in your car and a computer through a VCI. Dataformats, bitrates, commands, timings, signaling specifications and what not for programming, diagnostics, activations and so on. Substandards are J2534-1 for ECMs, J2534-2 for all other ecus. Without J2534 compatible firmware/drivers/software, your cable won't be usable for the things you want to do.

I installed it in 2 VirtualPc in Vmware 25h2..., the installation went fine and it's working so far. I'll connect it to the car and let you know...

@VolvoAugust Do a short test without the charger attached, to rule out interferences from it.
And take into account, that the brute forcing of the CEM and ECM pin are not comparable in terms of speed. Your ECM seems to be somewhat slower to crack. So you need to be patient.
If you don't want to wait for up to 90 hours, your only alternative would be bench reading. This involves removing the ECM from the car and take it to someone who is able to open it, and read and decode the content directly from the EEPROM with special tools and software. Most ECU repair workshops should be able to do this, but not for free and with the risk of damaging the ECM, especially the pins in the connectors, while removing/installing it.

The new version looks better. 🙂 I will test it and let you know later.

@sizan Is the DPF also physically removed from the car?
You should also check if the correct injector class is set in the ECM, before you try different software.
Another stupid question. Does the VIN that is reported by the CEM/shown in Vdash match the VIN that is stamped in the chassis?

Vdash has a backup/clone function. So it should be possible to make a backup before flashing different software. The button is somewhere in the top right corner between "configuration" and "Ecu diagnostic", after the car is connected.
Attach a really good charger while flashing/backup.
When the programming is done, shut off the car and leave it alone for a while. And be prepared that the car might not start at the first attempt after flashing. This is normal on some cars.
On some cars you also need to reset the ECM adaptions after a flash. I can't tell you if this required on this specific engine.

@aiveo another option would be to drill a hole from the front, remove the old transponder, and glue in the new one.
The original key seems to be not meant for a transponder exchange, so Volvo can make more money with selling a complete new keyfob plus coding. 🙄

@C70Nightmare you might also ask the threadstarter of this thread https://forum.d5t5.com/post/674 for his version of VIDA, as Vdash lacks lots of options, because the main focus of this software is coding. Diagnostics and service functions are just add-ons that are partially implemented, but not even close to the level of VIDA.

@volveeta After changing parameters, you have to shut off the car and lock it long enough until all ecus are fully shut down. This can take up to 20 minutes. After that time all changes made "should" be active and in effect. For the first ERS attempt, you should drive around for a while and then leave the car locked and alone for a short period of time. If ERS is actived, but still not working, there usually are messages on the dash, which prerequisits are not okay. The car should be parked on halfway level ground, battery SOC over 80%, enough fuel in the tank, parking brake applied, no active DTCs in the ECM and TCM.
If you press any key on the fob, after the ERS is triggered, the car is immediatly shuts off.

Sorted.
Read on another source, clean the MAF sensor.
I had just done a service and new air filter, figured some fluf or other residue from the new filter got on the MAF, cleaned with electrical cleaner, refitted, all faults and warning clear.

hi, Dont know if you got an answer, but i bough a Vlinker dongle and used an app called Vtool, very good ap and can do the battery reset with it, hope that helps

If you have a supported adapter, you could just connect your car to vdash, and simply click through the advanced configuration options, to see what is possible or not with your car. This way you can find out if Vdash is useful for you or not, before you spend money for nothing.

@McVolvo How about providing more information? What car, what modelyear, what engine code, which DTCs are present in the car, what has already been done to solve your issue? My first guess would be wrong plugs, clogged fuel filter, or intake leak.

@VOLOK Thanks for the offer, very nice! I have already found another option and now have the CEM-pin. I guess PIN code retrieval by VIN is not possible for the ECM-pin?

@Leinth if you are using a Bluetooth OBD-adapter and a mobile app, you could try an app called V-Tool https://v-tool.app/ This app reads codes and live data on the same level as VIDA or Vdash and presents them also in the same code format and is also able to perform lots of service functions, but without the need for a laptop and cables. The only downside is, it currently still lacks support for freeze frame data, which could be problematic when you are chasing temporary errors. But you need a decent adapter that supports highspeed and lowspeed CAN, which is only supported by a few little bit more expensive adapters. Here is a list of tested and recommended adapters https://v-tool.app/supported-obd-adapters/
Your P0420 already gave away that you are not using a Volvo specific scanner, as VIDA and Vdash use a slightly different code format. P0420 would be ECM-P042000 in the Volvo Format.

@MarkusC30T5 what options do you see, when you connect vdash and click on the TCM after all ecus have been loaded?

@unysea Here is the pinout in german anyway 😉
C30 ECM-0001.jpg C30 ECM-0002.jpg C30 ECM-0003.jpg C30 ECM-0004.jpg C30 ECM-0005.jpg

@Nuki Moin aus Berlin!
Deine Frage ist zwar schon ein bisschen älter, aber trotzdem würde mich interessieren ob Du irgendwo eine brauchbare Antwort bekommen hast? Prinzipiell könntest du die Stand-/ Zusatzheizung komplett deaktivieren. Aber dann ist sie halt permanent komplett aus.
Warum möchtest Du das überhaupt machen? Zumindest der Verbrauch von rund 1 Liter Diesel pro Stunde ist im Vergleich zu den finanziellen Folgen vom regelmäßigen Fahren mit kaltem Motor geradezu lächerlich.

Hello.
You could also consider this interface: https://d5t5.com/eshop/detail/180/super-j2534-volvo-dice-9513000-replacement

After the purchase, I connected to the program and it was received.