@Caerbannog13 check R6 and R13. Also check the clutch switch, if your car is a manual.

@bochenn The VIN is not enough. It's not fully shown to other users, and even if it was shown in full, it would only be useful for users, who have access to a legit subscription of VIDA which is not possible for private users, except in the USA. You either have to connect the car to Vdash at least once, and then tick the box to add your car configuration when you make a post. Or you simply make a photo of the upper middle black area of your windscreen above the rearview mirror and upload it here. This area. This photo is for example without the FSM.
Your car also needs to have Xenon headlights, as cars with Halogens don't have the required height sensors.

@Ctrl-alt-delete what's the mileage of the car? Maybe the PCV is leaking or clogged.

@bochenn here is the schematic of all modules involved for AHB. 7/119 and 7/121 are the height sensor at the front and rear axle.

@bochenn Does your car have adaptive cruise control and traffic sign recognition?

It's also possible that your EGR isn't working properly or stuck open when the ECM demands it to be fully closed.

@bochenn if your car has the required hardware like FSM, CVM and so on, than yes.

The problem seems to start when to the EGR is closing. As your MAF is reporting different values, this part is working and not the cause of your problem. Your data is lacking the pressure from the MAP sensor(s). There is one in the intake manifold that you should a look at as described here https://d5t5.com/article/vea-d5-clogged-boost-pressure-sensor and there is maybe a second one in the intercooler, that you should also clean. Then you should do a smoke test of whole intake and charge pipe system. There seems to be leak, or it's just the MAPs are dirty, also take a closer look at the EGR pipes. These are known to crack from time to time.

@Ctrl-alt-delete before you start to fire the parts canon, you should know that 90%of all MAF codes are follow up errors of other problems. Old/weak batteries, dirty MAP sensor, dirty throttle body, carbon build up in the EGR/EGR cooler. There is also a technical journal about a design flaw in the EGR cooler of older VEA diesels, that triggers P010000 and requires replacing EGR and cooler with redesigned parts.
The data you have collected is also not really useful, unless you find the signal specifications of the ECM, to check if everything is in the desired range. This data can be found in the online version of VIDA which is not accessible for private user, unless you live in the US. VIDA also has detailed explanations what triggers code XYZ and an associated fault trace with things to check, to find the cause for the code. This kind of vital information can hardly be found in the internet.
You also should know that Volvos don't like aftermarket sensors. Replacing the MAF with an aftermarket part might not solve your issue, if it's really the MAF.
Your first step should be to get a good Volvo capable diag tool and scan the car with that. Not only the ECM, all ecus. A dead battery for example will trigger several communication codes in several ecus. You should also take a look at the freeze frame data, that is stored together with the code and consists of a set of data/parameters that happened in the moment when the code was stored, which could be helpfull to identify some problems.

The J2534 is a complicated SAE standard that describes/specifies all kinds of communication protocols between all ecus in your car and a computer through a VCI. Dataformats, bitrates, commands, timings, signaling specifications and what not for programming, diagnostics, activations and so on. Substandards are J2534-1 for ECMs, J2534-2 for all other ecus. Without J2534 compatible firmware/drivers/software, your cable won't be usable for the things you want to do.

@VolvoAugust Do a short test without the charger attached, to rule out interferences from it.
And take into account, that the brute forcing of the CEM and ECM pin are not comparable in terms of speed. Your ECM seems to be somewhat slower to crack. So you need to be patient.
If you don't want to wait for up to 90 hours, your only alternative would be bench reading. This involves removing the ECM from the car and take it to someone who is able to open it, and read and decode the content directly from the EEPROM with special tools and software. Most ECU repair workshops should be able to do this, but not for free and with the risk of damaging the ECM, especially the pins in the connectors, while removing/installing it.

@VolvoAugust What's the hardware number of the ECM? This info is shown when you click on the ECM in vdash.

@Ctrl-alt-delete if your cable 100% supports the DoIP, or the J2534-2 protocol (including compatible Windows J2534-2 drivers), you should be able use it with vdash or orbit. But as it sounds more like you have made a CAN bus sniffer, I doubt it.

To program keys, you will need several security pins to get write access to several ecus. Not 100% sure what is needed on the SPA plattform, but IMMO and KVM pin are definitely needed, and can't be cracked with Vdash. Maybe you also need the CEM pin, which has a 50/50 chance to be crackable with Vdash with a really good J2534 adapter and lots of patience.
There are even more pins in your car, and all if them are unique for your car. The only way to extract most of them is on the bench or by using man-in-the-middle techniqes while the car is being programmed with a legit version of VIDA. On SPAs/CMAs from 2022 onwards it became even worse because of a hardware firewall behind the OBD socket.

@sizan Is the DPF also physically removed from the car?
You should also check if the correct injector class is set in the ECM, before you try different software.
Another stupid question. Does the VIN that is reported by the CEM/shown in Vdash match the VIN that is stamped in the chassis?

Vdash has a backup/clone function. So it should be possible to make a backup before flashing different software. The button is somewhere in the top right corner between "configuration" and "Ecu diagnostic", after the car is connected.
Attach a really good charger while flashing/backup.
When the programming is done, shut off the car and leave it alone for a while. And be prepared that the car might not start at the first attempt after flashing. This is normal on some cars.
On some cars you also need to reset the ECM adaptions after a flash. I can't tell you if this required on this specific engine.

@aiveo another option would be to drill a hole from the front, remove the old transponder, and glue in the new one.
The original key seems to be not meant for a transponder exchange, so Volvo can make more money with selling a complete new keyfob plus coding.

@aiveo https://youtu.be/JeP1lWSfAdA?is=YTg6CEC980bYtC5_ here is a video how to do it

@C70Nightmare you might also ask the threadstarter of this thread https://forum.d5t5.com/post/674 for his version of VIDA, as Vdash lacks lots of options, because the main focus of this software is coding. Diagnostics and service functions are just add-ons that are partially implemented, but not even close to the level of VIDA.

@C70Nightmare should be also an option in the ECM menu.

@C70Nightmare what options do you see when you click on the ECM? Your engine should only require setting the correct injector class, so you won't see the IMA code option that you might have seen in some online tutorials or videos. If you replaced your injectors with the same class, you won't need to do any coding at all. All 4 injectors have to be the same class.

@C70Nightmare injector coding is not available on sponsored accounts. https://d5t5.com/article/subscription-types-prices

@Arnis2002 my current understanding is, that it's unclear if the car was remapped or not. If this is the case and the car was tampered by one of those wannabe tuners that think running crap like autotuner, which offers stolen software packages without checking if the software works or even matches the vehicle makes them a good tuner, then I agree with you. Return to 100% original software and then flashing a properly done remap based on that is the way to go. If this has to be done from one of the most expensive Volvo tuners around is another question.
The tunes offered by Vdash are made by Obbe-Tuning, and this guy also knows what he's doing, but for much less money.