@Vlodek Your car was most probably remapped/tuned with a modified ECM software that has DPF and EGR mapped out/disabled. Ask the former owner of the car, if that is possible, what exactly was done. You can try to get back to stock software (stage 0) via the "engine optimization" option in vdash. But this will cost you money. And if the EGR was blanked and the DPF emptied, you will run into serious problems and costs afterwards.
What exactly are your problems/ error codes? Why do you want to do a DPF regen?
And please write in english.

@marantz2245 to activate this function, you basically have to activate the high beam when you leave the car, and setup it up in the center console menu. It's all written in the manual. Just read it. Or get a VDD if you want real "coming home" lights.
Your car requires an AGM type battery for the main battery and also an AGM type for the secondary battery. Both batteries should always be replaced together and with the correct procedure. Cheaping out on long lasting parts like batteries will result in really strange problems in the near future, especially as V40s are really, really sensitive when it comes to even small voltage fluctuations.

@D5T5-zub Hello Radomir,
today i was able to test the new firmware. I disconnected the battery for around 30 minutes and connect vdash first. The door modules where back online together with 3 DTCs DDM-U014000, PDM-U014000, DDM-U016487. All 3 codes cleared without coming back. Window commands as well as close windows when locking the doors are working just fine. Additionally another bug seems to be fixed. When I locked the car via the button in trunk lid, the VDD app showed the trunk to be still unlocked. This is now fixed also.

@D5T5-zub yes

@joroartcorp don't do the retrofit until your error got fixed!

@joroartcorp contact the vdash support. You have to create a backup of your existing DIM with vdash, which needs to be corrected and than flashed back to your DIM. This will only be done on request. The support should give you exact advices how to do that.

The warning message means that you have to revert all changes done with vdash whenever you visit a volvo dealer or connect your car to VIDA, all config changes done with vdash will be reverted to the last state known to volvo, and your warranty, if still present, will be voided. Keys added with vdash will also be removed.
If you click on "change configuration" you will find a configuration wizard that offers to restore the original configuration. There should be also a market conversion wizard.

@pshkourin did you by a subscription? Injector coding isn't available for free accounts.
https://d5t5.com/article/subscription-types-prices

@ps603 "application" and "remove" = parameter change in the CEM or specific Ecu. "Reload" and "upgrade" = Ecu firmware.

ERS through VDD will most probably never be realized, but you can enable ERS via keyfob with vdash.

@ps603 If ITP is already off, you just need the CEM pin for vdash. The whole car configuration is stored in a small database in the CEM.
Configuration changes through VIDA are done with software downloads and are also stored on the Volvo servers. If you add a new module to the car, it's always 2 downloads. 1x software for the new module, 1x configuration change in the CEM.
If want to replace a defective module from the infotainment with a used one, you just have to disable ITP (infotainment theft protection) and can simply install a used one from a donor car.
If you want to upgrade your infotainment, like adding DAB, by using a used module, you have to add the wiring needed and need to know the correct software number for that CEM configuration change to download and install with VIDA. Or you can use third party tools like vdash, which can modify the CEM configuration way beyond the possibilities/limitations of VIDA, and without any software numbers, to enable that module.
I hope my explanation is understandable. English isn't my native language.

You can do this with vdash. Different level sensors and rewiring is also needed.

@ps603 if you want to use a used module from a donor car similar to your own, you "only" need to decode the CEM pin, IMMO pin and security pin with vdash. Then you can disable ITP, add the module and maybe you need to change the car configuration with vdash. The module itself should already have the correct software on it, if it is a used one.

@ps603 small update. HW number 31328586 is for DAB only (no DAB+), which is outdated/not broadcasted anymore, 32270870 supports DAB and DAB+. Small but important difference. And Volvo removed lots of old SW downloads from their VIDA database.

@ps603 and please write in english. This is an international forum. I tried several translators to even understand your question.

Vdash doesn't offer SW updates for infotainment HW. The cracked VIDA is outdated and hardware from modelyear 2009 doesn't work in modelyear 2013 and newer. Stick to the numbers from the link you posted HW 32270870 and SW 31285168/31268617.

@expedition1945 your car needs to be modelyear 2005 or newer, so vdash can decode your CEM pin, than you need a virgin (brandnew) or viginized (existing data and security pin removed) CEM to write to. For the rest of the procedure you should contact vdash support.

@EdvardMD as a private person, you need to live in the USA, or you don't get a subscription from VOLVO. In the rest of the world, you need to be a VAT registered garage. Check here https://tis.volvocars.biz/main.do Additionally you need a genuine DICE or high quality J2534 adapter like Super J2534 from D5T5 or svdns.info. Chinese DICE-clones are blocked by VIDA, and cheap chinese J2534 adapters like Vxnano might brick your car. Besides the expensive subscription fee you also have to pay for every software download you order. Simply visit a Volvo dealer and let them do the update. It's cheaper and easier.

Vdash doesn't provide software updates. This requires a VIDA subscription.

Visit a volvo dealer and let them check for software updates. Most times it's caused by a combination of old/degraded batterie (new batteries can sometimes also be overmatured or degraded by wrong/to long storage) and a software bug. You can also try to charge your batterie with an AGM compatible charger (positive cable directly at the positive terminal of the batterie and negative cable to the chassis or engine). After it's fully charged, keep the car locked for at least 4 hours.