@Najkon what maps did you try to install?
Usually you first have to install the complete big Europe map pack. After that you can switch to just updating the region(s) you really need.

@Libelix how did you install the tune? Flashing a tune doesn't do anything to the VCM.
Using the VOE adapter requires a computer/laptop that is able to run 2 seperate network connections in parallel. One towards the car and another towards the internet. Most non-business/home user devices from HP, Dell, Acer and so on don't support that.

@Kurt1977 I think I'm getting old.

The official guide recommends cloning the software and than perform SRS configure. As your original module has a checksum error indicating corrupted software or a bad EEprom , cloning won't work.
You can try to just perform the SRS configure if you install a used module hoping the software is the same than in your original module or at least compatible with your car. If this doesn't work you will need an official VIDA subscription to perform a software reload, but this will only work if the software for the donor part is still present on the servers and if VIDA thinks the part number is somehow compatible with your car. Volvo has started to remove lots of softwares and part numbers for superseded/discontinued modules from their VIDA servers making software downloads impossible for those parts.

You can also try to contact some specialists for ecu repairs and ask them if they can fix your original module.

@Kurt1977 here is a little info about BCM replacement. The module must come out of a car that is similar to yours. Same model year, engine, transmission if possible. Part number can be different but must of course be compatible with your car.

@Lucas-Riso that's strange. What options do you see for indirekt TPMS? There should be different options. You might need to look in the old configurator which can be enabled somewhere in the top right corner of the car configuration menu. There should be two option menus under "wheels and suspension" . One for TPMS where "not installed" should be selected. And one for indirekt TPMS where you should see several options similar to these

@330hpwagon I'm not sure if your car supports HDC. The official manuals mention HDC only from model years 2015.5 onward as this feature was officially introduced with the Cross Country models and is activated by default on these models only.
To use HDC you have to manually shift to 1st gear or R. You can't activate it when in D or above 7 km/h.
VIDA doesn't mention anything about specific hard- or software that has to be installed or that this function is only available from a specific structure week like other functions like ERS.
The DTCs in your BCM are also all yellow which means they are temporary/historic/not active while the others in red are permanent. The first one in the CEM is from LED bulbs at the license plate and can be ignored. The others should be the ones that you want to adress.

Why exactly do you even want to activate this function? I have a V60CC with this function and never felt the need to go downhill with less than 10 km/h.

@V40 VIDA2014D/2015A can't be used on that engine. VIDA won't be able to communicate with that car. You will need to use Vdash for reading codes and accessing service functions. VIDA will be still useful for you, even without beeing able to connecting it to your car. You can manually specify a car that is most similar to yours and look up things like code descriptions and fault tracings, signal descriptions and pinouts for everything except the ECM., repair and install instructions, and so on....

@Phantom244 your error codes might be the result of water ingress from clogged sun roof drainages.
You can check the grounds under the driver and passenger doors for corrosion.
See here...

But there usually would be more codes if those are corroded as there are several modules connected to those grounds.
On cars with sun roof it's a known problem that water gets into the fuse boxes behind the glove box when the drainage is clogged. Your error codes for a to high signal from the humidity sensor that is located behind the rear view mirror and a code for a bad antenna signal are also indicators that water might have reached places where it doesn't belong to.
A loose windscreen that lets water in is also pretty common on P3 Volvos.
Are there really just the three codes you posted, or do you have more DTCs? Also temporary ones would be interesting.

@Volvass80 The internet speed doesn't have be fast. The connection just has to be stable and the ping/latency shown by Vdash should be in the green range all the time.

I see two potential problems.
Your charger is not the best choice for software operations as it not only has a slightly too low power output. It most probably has no filter on the power outlet, so it sends interferences to the car. But if you attach both cables directly to the battery most of those interferences should be filtered out by the battery.

Your adapter is most likely the real problem here. A price tag in the 30-60 Euro range is an almost 100 percent guaranty to get a low quality device these days. Good quality DICE clones with original M32C chipset start at around 100 Euros. And good Mongoose JLR Pro/Super J2534 with the original Atmel chipset are even more expensive.
D5T5 and some of their partners offer to rent an adapter. So you don't need to spend that much money for a single operation. Your Scanmatic clone is good enough for diagnostics and service functions. It's just not good enough for configuration changes and cloning.

You can try to get a refund by creating a support ticket here chose VDASH-Refunds.

You need to add TPMS sensors part number 31414189 or similar to your wheels and change the car configuration to direct TPMS. In some cases the sensors need to be coded to the car with a TPMS tool.
You can also just enable iTPMS which works with the wheelspeed sensors and without having to add sensors to the wheels. The only difference between TPMS and iTPMS is that you can see the tire pressure with TPMS. A flat tire will be detected by both systems with the same latency or detection speed. At least as long as you don't put "runflat" tires in your car.
The CEM pin is required for this configuration change.

@MarkusC30T5 Manuals don't have a TCM. So all related wiring for that can be removed from the car.
You need to ask the Vdash support if they can provide the required ECM reload (manual software) for you, and also if the configuration change in the CEM can be unlocked/activated for you.
This will of course cost you some money.
You also need to crack the CEM pin to change the configuration.

@Volvass80 The car goes into programming mode to read and write software to/from modules. This means the car turns of all unnecessary functions to safe voltage for the software transfer. The car literally seem to go completely dead. This is normal and nothing to worry about.
Trying to read the ETM for one hour seems to be way to long. Reading and writing should take some minutes each.

What type of adapter are you using? Vxdiag, Vxnano, Scanmatic SMII and cheap Mongoose and DICE clones sold on chinese trading plattform are known to not work reliable enough for software cloning. The adapter name is shown in the top right corner of Vdash.

Is your charger powerfull enough? I recommended a CTEK PRO25S or a charger with similar specs. Lots of cheap noname chargers also create interferences that interfere the software transfer.

Is your internet connection stable when in the car?

If the car is stuck in programming mode you need to disconnect the battery exactly as you did. Or you can try the emergency restart function of Vdash.

@Usturmaca Hier ist dir Pinbelegung vom SRS Modul.

Ich denke aber, du solltest es mal VIDA versuchen.
Mit dieser Option um genau zu sein.

Ob es diese Option auch in Vdash gibt weiß ich nicht. Wäre aber vermutlich einfacher falls du noch keine Erfahrungen mit VIDA.

@VolvoAugust The log file method doesn't work since ages and was only used for the CEM pin. This was also never possible with the offline version of VIDA as this version isn't capable of software downloads at all.
The VIDA/Wireshark method also doesn't seem to work for ECM pins. Bench reading is the only option you have. Sorry.

@Jcm89 a flush every 10000 miles is a little bit over the top. Drain and refill at this intervall would be more than good enough to keep the transmission happy.

As for the torque limiter. 5-speed automatic is limited in the first two gears. 6-speed in first three gears, 8-speed has no limiter. This is done to reduce wear on the differential, drive shafts and several other parts, but also to have enough traction.
Some tuners offer to remove this limiter, but it has more negative than positive effects.

@VolvoAugust The only way to get the pin is on the bench. You won't get information how to actually do this in this forum. The guys that know how to do it, usually don't share their knowledge to the public.

@Skara0 The 185hp Euro4 D5 shouldn't require a pin. This seems to be an error in Vdash asking for a pin. RICA and BSR for example offer tunes without needing a pin for that engine. Only the Euro5 D5s should be pin protected.

@Jcm89 there is no definitive answer for that question. 440-450Nm is considered to be okay for a well maintained AW55 that was flushed every 80-90000km. But with 480Nm you can expect some negative things. Harsh shifting, slipping and overheating in the summer for example. Especially if the transmission was never flushed on a regular basis, which seems to be the standard in over 95% of all AW55 equipped Volvos out there. As Volvo advertised the AW55 to be filled for it's whole lifetime and never require an oil change or flush.
With the ST1 tune you should already plan a flush every 50-60000 km and also shorten the intervall for engine oil changes by 1/3. With ST2 a flush every 30-40000km and engine oil change at half of the regular intervall would be recommended.
Lifting the power output also lifts the changes for seeing all kinds of troubles that you won't see in a stock car. Burned head gasket, cracked cylinder walls, cracked exhaust manifold, turbo failure, bend rods and so on...
In germany we have the saying "Spass kostet" which translates to something like "more fun will costs you more"
So think twice if you are willing to deal with the negative effects of tuning before you apply more power to your car. The costs for the tune itself might be low, but the follow up costs can be insane. Don't ask me how I got to know this.

@volvov70freak after login in to VIDA you first open computer settings in the "Start" tab of VIDA and disable VIN decoding.
Than you open the "define vehicle profile" menu, check that "VIN decoding off" is written in red next to the VIN box,
Don't click on the read button!,
manually enter your VIN,
select your model,
select the latest model year available,
select your engine code, transmission and so on,
click on ok
Click on the Diagnostic tab and read your car as usual.
This only works on some P1s and P3s but not all.
If your engine isn't listed, you need to select a similar one which uses the same ECM hardware.
1.5 liter petrol engines and 7-speed automatic are not supported.
It's also described at the end of the install guides you can find here.

@ZaanTerror thanks for clarification.
Info added to the install guides